My partner, Brad, and I purchased our '99 RB in September, well aware of its laundry list of needed repairs. But with low miles and a great price, we decided it would be worth the effort in the end. So far, we have resolved problems with the generator, awning, leveling jacks, taillights, furnace, passenger side mirror, rotted/loose entry step, and a few of the cracks in the end caps. We also upgraded the radio to a double DIN stereo with Apple CarPlay. And in addition to repairs, we dream of renovating the interior and customizing the space as we plan to live out of our LD full-time.
The remaining issues:
1. water heater won't stay lit
2. marker lights need new housings
3. water damage in the rear passenger-side storage compartment
4. wood rot in the back wall
We have replaced the water heater's thermostat and circuit board. The water tank is empty, so our next idea is to fill it in hopes that it's not staying lit due to a safety feature. We have new housings for the marker lights that have yet be installed. We've removed the rotted wood from the storage compartment and exposed the aluminum. It has several holes we plan to fix up with aluminum patches and JB Weld Steel Epoxy. The wood framework isn't in the best condition either and will need at least partially replaced. From there, we aren't sure what to layer on top but considering flex seal or something similar. I'll attach photos so you can see what we are working with. Opinions and ideas are encouraged!
Now for the dreaded back wall. We've seen other LD'ers get through this tedious restoration and although it was helpful to read and gain a visual beforehand (thank you, Cor2man), the project was still incredibly daunting. So we have avoided it up until a few days ago. We removed the spare tire compartment, ladder, lower half of both end caps, and mid section of paneling - in that order. Chisel/putty knife, hammer, and a lot of patience. Yesterday, we began the process of removing the bumper by driving out the bolts connected to the body. It wasn't fun. We think our next step is getting underneath and cutting through the adhesive that's holding it to the paneling/body. Then remove the bolts connected to the chassis with an impact wrench. Once the bumper is off, we will be able to remove the lowest section of paneling. And then out comes the window so we can reseal it thoroughly and replace the gasket. We suspect our leaks have come from the end caps and/or rear window. I asked the previous owner and neither has ever been resealed. We know we will need a LOT of sealant and adhesive for this project and would love your two cents on what products to use. We'd like to stay budget friendly, but it's hard to know what instances splurging becomes necessary.
We plan to replace as much wood as necessary and possible. With that being said neither my partner or I have experience with these types of repairs. But we do believe we have enough logic and plenty of resources to get the job done ourselves. I will attach photos all along the way. Posting this thread for fun, for awareness, and for your assistance. So feel free to enjoy, learn, and chime in!
Water heater not staying lit may be caused by too low a pressure in the propane line or propane line blockage. If the propane flame is weak, the flame sensor may not reach the designed temperature and will shut off the solenoid. I saw this condition in a friend's travel trailer where the propane line was pinched.
Heather and Brad … you are certainly brave souls. There’s one thing for sure. When you’re done you’ll know your LD like the back of your hand. I look forward to following your progress.
I seem to think you have to have water in the water heater for the burner to stay lit.
Good luck with the rest of your project. You are brave people to dig into that.
Steve K
Brad - Heather, curious what sealant you used when you put things back together? I want to reseal the back cap but do not want to use the 3M product as it is not clear.
I used vhb 3m tape and locktite pl s40 on the seam. I plan on doing a light oxford white touchup to blend it in but the small white line along the entire endcap really doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. I'm just happy to have gotten rid of the rot and had no clue I would be replacing under the side windows too. May have to do one of them Mexican paint jobs.
Many cheers to you for saving this Lazy Daze from the depths of sad conditions. I felt bad for its condition - and for all you are going through with the repairs. Much love and patience you have!
Sending love and all the best DIY juju for your rejuvenation project! Looking forward to the progress.
Happy Reno!!!
May have to do one of them Mexican paint jobs.
Uh, like I just did! ;)
Brad - Heather, curious what sealant you used when you put things back together? I want to reseal the back cap but do not want to use the 3M product as it is not clear.
Chris we are using Loctite PLS40! I believe I read on another forum that's what the LD Factory recommends. But it's not clear either. I've heard 3M has long-lasting results but is a pain to work with.
Many cheers to you for saving this Lazy Daze from the depths of sad conditions. I felt bad for its condition - and for all you are going through with the repairs. Much love and patience you have!
Sending love and all the best DIY juju for your rejuvenation project! Looking forward to the progress.
Happy Reno!!!
Amy!! Thank you so much for your kind message and well wishes ❤️ It has been challenging but we are so grateful to save it.
A big progress update!
In the last month we've been able to reconstruct the back end. Today, we finished splicing wires and checked to make sure we have working tail lights. If all goes according to plan, we will glue, staple, and screw the skins on tomorrow! And caulk every possible seam. Followed by the tire well, bumper, end caps, window, and ladder. It's not over but it sure feels great to have made it this far. We truly were amateurs but it's never too late to learn these valuable skills. Don't get me wrong, it's been a headache, but I'd recommend it to anyone. If we can do it, y'all can too!
Attaching photos from the past 30 days -
👍 A massive project, but good on you for taking on the challenges!
Hi Heather and Brad; Wow, it's good to see repairs like this. Looks like a good job! I hope you put in LED tail lights. I kept the access panel to the lights already in the storage compartment on the driver side. I added a similar panel inside the compartment on the passenger side. Also for the license plate lights I recommend 1-1/2” Round LED License Plate Light - Chrome Housing - Pigtail Connection |... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-license-plate-lights/1-12-round-led-license-plate-light-chrome-housing-pigtail-connection/1961/4455/) because they are LED and have the two wires already attached.
Looking at your first post, a '99 RB. Same year as my TK. I hope that I don't have any rot issues like this (ever)! It's helpful to include that information on your signature line for other readers.
RonB
Progress is looking great! So exciting! :D
Hi Heather and Brad; Wow, it's good to see repairs like this. Looks like a good job! I hope you put in LED tail lights. I kept the access panel to the lights already in the storage compartment on the driver side. I added a similar panel inside the compartment on the passenger side. Also for the license plate lights I recommend 1-1/2” Round LED License Plate Light - Chrome Housing - Pigtail Connection |... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-license-plate-lights/1-12-round-led-license-plate-light-chrome-housing-pigtail-connection/1961/4455/) because they are LED and have the two wires already attached.
Looking at your first post, a '99 RB. Same year as my TK. I hope that I don't have any rot issues like this (ever)! It's helpful to include that information on your signature line for other readers.
RonB
Thank you, Ron! 😊 We have changed both the headlights and taillights to LED. Unfortunately, I didn't read your reply until after I installed new incandescent license plate lights. But I think with the amount of heat shrink, electrical tape, and sealant applied, they should hold up well for a good while.
I also hope you NEVER have issues like this!! It's been a great learning experience but I don't wish it on anyone.
Thanks for the tips!
Yesterday was a really exciting day for visual progress! Brad and I are very happy with how the skins lined up. Now we just need a fresh paint job to match our clean seams. 😅
Well done! I'm so impressed by what you have accomplished.
Getting prepared to replace the window. This is another first for us. Any helpful tips? I think we may have to place shims on the sill to get the best fit. Also leaning towards the double sided adhesive vs a gasket. I've seen YouTubers spray water on the tape right before installation, claiming when it evaporates the seal will be airtight.. Does anyone know if there is truth to that theory? What solvent would you use to ensure the best reseal?
Thanks in advance!
After removing all screws, heat up a paint scraper then slip it behind the window frame to cut/melt through the heavy amount of adhesive glue that LD uses. Then gently work on prying off the window frame (ie: rubber tools).
Brad and Heather-
All the repairs on your RB look great, and I am impressed with your work.
Not to change the topic, but out of curiosity, before you purchased your LD, were you able to look at other models? My wife and I love the open feeling of the RB you bought, as we have been on the waitlist to purchase a new build for about three years.
Yesterday we closed up the back end. A very relieving feeling to no longer have a hole there. 😌
We glued the bumper to the chassis with JB Weld steel epoxy and used blue threadlocker to seal and protect the nuts & bolts. Just sealant was used around the 9 bolts & nuts that went into the frame.
The plastic tire well had many cracks and JB Weld plastic bonder worked well. Repairs will look better with some paint, but it'll be hidden under the cover anyway. Added new screws with evenly spaced washers, in hopes it may distribute the pressure better and avoid more cracking.
Our end caps were both cracked and slightly warped. We filled the old screw holes and cracks with more JB Weld. Inserted new screws and then some (being careful not to over tighten). Under the end caps, we caked the exposed wood with PL S40.
We used butyl tape and PL S40 to seal the window. Ended up cleaning the window flange and aluminum skin frame with 100% acetone and it seemed to work really well. Screwing on the inside frame was my least favorite part, as it's pretty blind without a flashlight. One screw got out of place and the head broke off.. so we had to back all of them out and start again. Thankfully, the second time was a charm and the fit turned out great!!
Now just a couple more exterior attachments - should be easy right? 😂
(Brad and I say that about every next step... but NOTHING about this repair has been easy haha)
Brad and Heather-
All the repairs on your RB look great, and I am impressed with your work.
Not to change the topic, but out of curiosity, before you purchased your LD, were you able to look at other models? My wife and I love the open feeling of the RB you bought, as we have been on the waitlist to purchase a new build for about three years.
Thanks, Sam!! After browsing LD's online, we loved the RB model the best and really only had eyes for it. Due to the rarity, this was actually the only LD we stepped foot inside. We also liked the idea of a 23 footer for better accessibility. We haven't lived in it yet, but so far I'm very happy with our RB layout and the storage capacity of a 26.5.
Hi Heather; On my TK I replaced the hold down screw that holds the tire cover down. I put in a longer stainless bolt and a brace for the head inside the wall to prevent it turning. On your RB, did you put a captive nut inside the wall? RonB
Hi Heather; On my TK I replaced the hold down screw that holds the tire cover down. I put in a longer stainless bolt and a brace for the head inside the wall to prevent it turning. On your RB, did you put a captive nut inside the wall? RonB
Hi Ron - We just finished putting the tire cover on and used a 4 inch hanger bolt. Any thoughts on that?
Hi Ron - We just finished putting the tire cover on and used a 4 inch hanger bolt. Any thoughts on that?
Ron is concerned that the SS bolt might loosen and spin with the acorn nut on it. The bolt needs to be secured so the head cannot spin. A carriage head bolt can be used with washers and a nut to lock the bolt in place. This assumes the wood the carriage bolt is passing through is thick enough to allow embedding of the carriage head.https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72177720298445262
There are alternatives if this solution will not work.
Larry
Hi Heather; I had to look up a hanger bolt to make sure what that was. If you used an acorn nut on the end to hold the tire cover on, it might just unscrew from the wood behind it and come out completely once when you try to open that cover.
When I got the TST 507 TPMS, I have a cap sensor on the spare, so I don't open that compartment often now. RonB
My partner, Brad, and I purchased our '99 RB in September, well aware of its laundry list of needed repairs. But with low miles and a great price, we decided it would be worth the effort in the end. So far, we have resolved problems with the generator, awning, leveling jacks, taillights, furnace, passenger side mirror, rotted/loose entry step, and a few of the cracks in the end caps. We also upgraded the radio to a double DIN stereo with Apple CarPlay. And in addition to repairs, we dream of renovating the interior and customizing the space as we plan to live out of our LD full-time.
The remaining issues:
1. water heater won't stay lit
2. marker lights need new housings
3. water damage in the rear passenger-side storage compartment
4. wood rot in the back wall
We have replaced the water heater's thermostat and circuit board. The water tank is empty, so our next idea is to fill it in hopes that it's not staying lit due to a safety feature. We have new housings for the marker lights that have yet be installed. We've removed the rotted wood from the storage compartment and exposed the aluminum. It has several holes we plan to fix up with aluminum patches and JB Weld Steel Epoxy. The wood framework isn't in the best condition either and will need at least partially replaced. From there, we aren't sure what to layer on top but considering flex seal or something similar. I'll attach photos so you can see what we are working with. Opinions and ideas are encouraged!
Now for the dreaded back wall. We've seen other LD'ers get through this tedious restoration and although it was helpful to read and gain a visual beforehand (thank you, Cor2man), the project was still incredibly daunting. So we have avoided it up until a few days ago. We removed the spare tire compartment, ladder, lower half of both end caps, and mid section of paneling - in that order. Chisel/putty knife, hammer, and a lot of patience. Yesterday, we began the process of removing the bumper by driving out the bolts connected to the body. It wasn't fun. We think our next step is getting underneath and cutting through the adhesive that's holding it to the paneling/body. Then remove the bolts connected to the chassis with an impact wrench. Once the bumper is off, we will be able to remove the lowest section of paneling. And then out comes the window so we can reseal it thoroughly and replace the gasket. We suspect our leaks have come from the end caps and/or rear window. I asked the previous owner and neither has ever been resealed. We know we will need a LOT of sealant and adhesive for this project and would love your two cents on what products to use. We'd like to stay budget friendly, but it's hard to know what instances splurging becomes necessary.
We plan to replace as much wood as necessary and possible. With that being said neither my partner or I have experience with these types of repairs. But we do believe we have enough logic and plenty of resources to get the job done ourselves. I will attach photos all along the way. Posting this thread for fun, for awareness, and for your assistance. So feel free to enjoy, learn, and chime in!
My partner, Brad, and I purchased our '99 RB in September, well aware of its laundry list of needed repairs. But with low miles and a great price, we decided it would be worth the effort in the end. So far, we have resolved problems with the generator, awning, leveling jacks, taillights, furnace, passenger side mirror, rotted/loose entry step, and a few of the cracks in the end caps. We also upgraded the radio to a double DIN stereo with Apple CarPlay. And in addition to repairs, we dream of renovating the interior and customizing the space as we plan to live out of our LD full-time.
The remaining issues:
1. water heater won't stay lit
2. marker lights need new housings
3. water damage in the rear passenger-side storage compartment
4. wood rot in the back wall
We have replaced the water heater's thermostat and circuit board. The water tank is empty, so our next idea is to fill it in hopes that it's not staying lit due to a safety feature. We have new housings for the marker lights that have yet be installed. We've removed the rotted wood from the storage compartment and exposed the aluminum. It has several holes we plan to fix up with aluminum patches and JB Weld Steel Epoxy. The wood framework isn't in the best condition either and will need at least partially replaced. From there, we aren't sure what to layer on top but considering flex seal or something similar. I'll attach photos so you can see what we are working with. Opinions and ideas are encouraged!
Now for the dreaded back wall. We've seen other LD'ers get through this tedious restoration and although it was helpful to read and gain a visual beforehand (thank you, Cor2man), the project was still incredibly daunting. So we have avoided it up until a few days ago. We removed the spare tire compartment, ladder, lower half of both end caps, and mid section of paneling - in that order. Chisel/putty knife, hammer, and a lot of patience. Yesterday, we began the process of removing the bumper by driving out the bolts connected to the body. It wasn't fun. We think our next step is getting underneath and cutting through the adhesive that's holding it to the paneling/body. Then remove the bolts connected to the chassis with an impact wrench. Once the bumper is off, we will be able to remove the lowest section of paneling. And then out comes the window so we can reseal it thoroughly and replace the gasket. We suspect our leaks have come from the end caps and/or rear window. I asked the previous owner and neither has ever been resealed. We know we will need a LOT of sealant and adhesive for this project and would love your two cents on what products to use. We'd like to stay budget friendly, but it's hard to know what instances splurging becomes necessary.
We plan to replace as much wood as necessary and possible. With that being said neither my partner or I have experience with these types of repairs. But we do believe we have enough logic and plenty of resources to get the job done ourselves. I will attach photos all along the way. Posting this thread for fun, for awareness, and for your assistance. So feel free to enjoy, learn, and chime in!
You guys did an amazing job! Are the aluminum panels just flat sheet or is there a lip/step pressed on for the overlap?