Happy Thanksgiving!
I have basically a generalized question. What doe an RV Class C need to have to be able to use in say a couple of weeks or so of below freezing weather. I am a seasonal National Park ranger and would like to be able to begin my season sooner and end it later. I am not looking to work in Alaska but some of our northern state get some freezing nights early and late in the season.
Thanks guys!
Colleen
If electric power is avalable, it can be done but will require modifications (tank heaters) to prevent the holding tanks from freezing.
Some RV have their water and holding tanks inside the heated area, better for winter dry camping. LDs do not have this feature and are not specifically built for extremely cold climates, many RVs built in Canada are better suited for winter camping
What type of services or facilities will be available? I hope water, a dump and a source of propane are available.
Larry
The degree of winter camping preparation depends on how cold it gets AND for how long. A longtime full time LDO advised the Forum that day time temperatures above freezing allows for a few simple steps. On the other hand, day and night temperatures well below freezing for several days or longer require more complete preparations.
At the least, disconnect the city water connection after filling the fresh water tank. Close off the area under the cab-over with a heavy blanket or quilt. Insulate the vents with any of the many available options. If using shore power to heat the inside, also leave the propane heater turned on and on the lowest setting as a backup if you lose power. Turn the water heater on late at night and don’t turn it off until it cycles off. Then turn it off until very early the next morning. Open the doors under the kitchen and bathroom sink. On our MB, I also remove the panel next to the breaker box to allow heat to reach the water pump and the fresh water tank.
If the day and night freezing temperatures are for a few days, keep the black/gray tanks at least 1/3 full. The fuller the tanks the longer you can endure freezing temperatures in the 20 degree range and above.
In addition, window insulation behind closed blinds are helpful.
When there are prolonged day and night freezing temperatures, I’d recommend dumping the black/gray tanks IF they are not somehow insulated or protected and find an alternative. (Think Van camping toilet). You might consider dumping some RV antifreeze into the empty sewage tanks to keep the valves from freezing.
There’s probably a few more things you might do but I’m full of Thanksgiving Day dinner and feeling a little dull right now. Hope some of helps.
I survived the 2021 Texas Freeze in February. In addition to some of the suggestions above, there were a few things that helped me make it through with minimal damage.
- When the power kept going out I had a couple of options. I had a nearly full tank of gas so that I was able to use the generator to power a small electric heater. I was also able to use the heat from the cab by running the engine if needed (that worked really well).
- My 2003 MB has a heat strip on the AC unit. It really just takes the chill off but doesn't really warm but that was still helpful.
- Luckly I had dumped my tanks a couple of days before the storm hit. I had problems with ice build-up on the dump valves. I used some cheap shower caps to over the valve covers and that stopped the ice build-up because the wind wasn't able to blow on them.
- Of course I used the propane heater sparingly.
- I kept the water heater on to keep the pipes from freezing and would run a little water through them from time to time.
- The previous owner had the black and gray tanks insulated. Due to an accident I had, a new black tank was installed that is not insulated but it made it through okay.
Things I'll be prepared for if I end up in a similar situation:
- I did not have any RV antifreeze. I now have 2 bottles of concentrated antifreeze I can use melted snow to dilute the antifreeze and pour it into the black and gray tanks.
- I will also run a small electric heater in the bathroom. Unknown to me at the time, a small hairline freeze crack developed in part behind the toilet that would fill the bowl with fresh water. While at the Balloon Fiesta (8 months later), it fully cracked and I had to call a mobile RV tech to repair the part. I was very lucky that Mesa RV in Albuquerque had the part in stock.
- I can now use an external propane tank to augment the onboard tank. I will be purchasing a 20 lb tank when I get back to Texas.
Good luck. It's great that you are getting prepared sooner rather than later. :-)
We lived in Jackson, Wyoming before moving to Santa Barbara, California. We used both a “Four Season” Arctic Fox camper, as well as a Lazy Daze. We camped regularly beginning in May, typically finishing in late October - the time period where day time temperatures remained above freezing (Ed’s & Margee’s point).
We did do some winter camping, eg; cross country ski touring and snow mobile outings. However, once we “Winterized” our rig (including the Arctic Fox), in the Fall, we did not put the plumbing back in service until Spring or upon reaching warmer climates. My suggestion would be that you camp at a campground that offers electricity (enabling a good electric space heater), as well as washroom, showers and an indoor place to wash your dishes. This will allow you to cook/eat and sleep in your coach while using the campground’s water requiring facilities. Think of it as Winter camping with a warm tent.
Good luck,
Warren
This is likely redundant for LDs with dual pane windows, but I've always "double-paned" the single pane windows in our SOB Class Cs. It's a single sheet of 0.090" acrylic that is cut to just fit inside the inside aluminum frame of the window, held there with little wire clips on the window frame screws. It makes a huge difference in comfort in sub-forty degree weather, the worst being 1 degree F in Bismarck, ND. They can be removed easily, but I usually leave them on even in the summer, just to help the air conditioner a bit, as we frequent desert areas for a month or so in the summer.
Of course, Andy Baird's cabover insulating method is very important for sleeping comfort. My wife would leave me if I neglected that, since she sleeps on the side at the front. On our current unit, I also insulated the sides of the cabover, in addition to the front, because I knew it would be cold in ND at Thanksgiving ;D
"Andy Baird's cabover insulating method is very important for sleeping comfort."
You can find a description here: Gertie's insulated bedroom (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/gertie/bedroom.htm)
Another way to seasonally insulate the windows is using a seasonal plastic window shrink cover. Covering the aluminum window frames will reduce condensation.
Frost King V93H, 42-Inch by 62-Inch - Weatherproofing Window Insulation Kits... (https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-V93H-42-62-Inch/dp/B000BQQ80E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3HH470EJWGDUJ&keywords=Frost+King+V73%2F9H+Indoor+Shrink+Window+Kit+42+62-Inch%2C&qid=1638053371&qsid=130-9294914-4705840&sprefix=frost+king+v73%2F9h+indoor+shrink+window+kit+42+62-inch%2C+%2Caps%2C480&sr=8-3&sres=B000AXSVJ4%2CB000BQQ80E%2CB082DY4BZ2%2CB000JINIZ2%2CB0000TPRDQ%2CB000AXON8C%2CB000L9OKCY%2CB07NP6WVYV%2CB000LNODSQ%2CB00195GB3K%2CB000CSK6FY%2CB00PP4QNCK%2CB0044UOXRI%2CB000OZROHI)
Using Eric’s suggestion, covering the inside of the screen door with clear acrylic sheeting allows it to remain open more in the colder months.
Larry
Thanks guys..great suggestions.. Warren, I live in Victro..andhave worked at the Teton's so I know the temps you refer to....chilly.....and snowy..
Btw Colleen, welcome to the LDO Forum. And I hope you hang around and share your experience with longer term cold weather camping. We'd find new cold weather camping information quite interesting.