I have an electrician coming to install an outlet for our RV so we can plug it in at home.
Toying with the idea of installing a 50 amp outlet so we can host larger rigs as well as plugging in our Lazy Daze.
Would there be a downside to leaving our rig plugged in to a 50 amp outlet using a dogbone and surge protector?
Is there a reason I should stick with a 30 amp outlet?
Am I correct that this is a 120v outlet?
Any and all advice / opinions would be much appreciated ☺️
I would do a NEMA 14-50 (50-AMP) if you can, if only because it's also becoming a standard outlet for electric car chargers. Those are very common for electricians to install these days.
The RV-30AMP (called a TT-30) will probably cost less, but be aware that some electricians aren't familiar with them. When they hear 30-AMP, they think of a 30-AMP 240v outlet instead of the RV 30-AMP 120v outlet. Be sure your electrician knows exactly what you're looking for.
https://www.rvtravel.com/a-common-expensive-mistake-when-installing-30-amp-rv-outlet-at-home/
No downside that I know of to plugging a 30AMP rig into a 14-50 long term. Just use high quality adapters.
Rich
I would definitely install a 50-AMP RV circuit, because you can always go down in power (the reverse is not true).
Assuming your electrical can support a 50-amp, 2-phase circuit, I would install both a 30-amp and a 50-amp plug, so there is no need for an adaptor.
Larry
Hi Kitty; I agree with Larry. While some don't want the extra expense, I believe my comments from 2020 are even more valid now. Install 30amp or 50amp at home?? (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=34827.msg215055#msg215055)
A likely box like a campground would have: Siemens TL137US Talon Temporary Power Outlet Panel with a 20, 30, and 50-Amp... (https://www.amazon.com/TL137US-Temporary-Receptacle-Installed-Unmetered/dp/B00A8FQUYW/ref=dp_fod_3?pd_rd_i=B00A8FQUYW&psc=1) RonB
Be sure that the electrician understands what a 30A (or 50A) outlet is, and doesn't install a 220V. This does happen!
https://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
After reading everyone's helpful suggestions (thank you!), decided we'd go with a compromise.
I've asked the electrician to wire for 50 amps (for a future upgrade), but configure it for 30 amps,
and put in a 30 amp/120v RV outlet (TT-30) and a "regular" 110VAC/20 amp outlet.
Hi Kitty; By the time you've got the wire there, it's just another $50 to have all three types of plugs and breakers already in the box.
The extra expense on the house side is more breakers in the house panel. RonB
Am I correct that this is a 120v outlet?
Unsure to what you refer...
The 50A is a 240V split-phase, the 30A is 120V single phase. Plugging the rig to a 50A with adapter, your rig is protected by the 30A circuit breaker in the converter.
Steve
Whether you put in a 30A or a 50A service, I highly recommend also having breakers at the outlet panel, unless the main panel is very close by. I don't like plugging/unplugging my shore power cord with a live outlet and it is easier to turn off power if working on the coach's electrical system.
Art
Looking at our panel, thinking we do have room for all 3 outlets/breakers.
Will check with the electrician to see what he thinks, thanks.
Though, right now not sure what I'd do with an "extra" 50 amp outlet.
Suppose it might let us host another rig though :D
Hadn't thought about having a breaker at the new outlet box. New outlets will be on the opposite side of the wall from the main panel in our garage.
Will ponder whether we want to go inside, back outside to plug in, then back out again.
Whether you put in a 30A or a 50A service, I highly recommend also having breakers at the outlet panel, unless the main panel is very close by. I don't like plugging/unplugging my shore power cord with a live outlet and it is easier to turn off power if working on the coach's electrical system.
Hi Kitty; If you have breakers in your house panel and the plug is outside on the wall of your house you probably don't 'need' another set of breakers. If however you are locating a remote pedestal outside to near where another, or your own rig may be parked, you would want remote breaker(s) at that pedestal. I would still want steel conduit, at least 18" deep. Common practice is to put a piece of orange painted wood over the top of the conduit, and a sign at both ends announcing an under ground electrical cable. Those backhoes are rough on electrical and gas lines. My friend with a ranch in rural San Diego has his electric service covered with concrete and when possible 4' deep. RonB
In addition to what others have said. If you just put in 1 50 you may not be able to use your 30 at the same time, you could exceed the 50amps. If you want to use both I would run 240v out there and have each outlet on a different leg, a120v 30a on one phase and a 120v 50a on the other.
In addition to what others have said. If you just put in 1 50 you may not be able to use your 30 at the same time, you could exceed the 50amps. If you want to use both I would run 240v out there and have each outlet on a different leg, a120v 30a on one phase and a 120v 50a on the other.
A separate line for each is correct, but the 50A is 240V split phase, not 120V single phase. The former comes from a 50 A double-slot breaker in the load center and can supply 12,000 Watts, the latter from a siingle-slot 30 A breaker, and can supply 3600 Watts.
Steve
We're now the owners of a 30 amp RV outlet on a 30 amp breaker and an extra household outlet on it's own breaker.
Directly on the other side of the main box in the garage, so a very short run.
Electrician ran the wires for 50 amps to the 30 amp outlet, so we can simply replace the breaker and outlet box if we ever see the need for an upgrade to 50 amps.
Since we got her, we've kept our gal "Serendipity" more than an hour from home so we're more than a little excited to have her right here in the driveway.
Thanks for all the advice and wisdom everyone :-)
Glad you worked something out. Having RV power at home is very convenient.
FWIW - that looks like a 30-AMP 240V clothes dryer outlet (called a NEMA 14-30). It's not what you would find at a 30-AMP RV pedestal (120V NEMA TT-30). Hopefully that's what you were expecting and the electrician gave some advice on the correct type of adapter to use.
Rich
Hi Rich, I'll double check with the electrician since I did specify a 120 v TT-30.
Lift up the cover so we can get a better gander, please.
"...that looks like a 30-AMP 240V clothes dryer outlet..."
Ditto, it sure doesn't look like my 30A outlet at all! ::)
Hi Rich, I'll double check with the electrician since I did specify a 120 v TT-30.
The pictures on this page should help you determine what you actually have.
NEMA connector - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_TT-30)
Rich
Here is a close-up of both the outlet and at the panel (guessing it's the wrong kind of outlet - sigh).
Is it safe to use with an adapter (and what do I need) or should I call another electrician for a do over?
Evidently, many electricians do not know what an RV plug looks like.
Larry
Watching the snow flurries at Tuttle Creek
Here is a close-up of both the outlet and at the panel (guessing it's the wrong kind of outlet - sigh).
Is it safe to use with an adapter (and what do I need) or should I call another electrician for a do over?
You can use an adapter like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-1-5-ft-14-30P-30-Amp-4-Prong-Dryer-Plug-to-30-Amp-RV-10-3-Extension-Cord-Adapter-RV1430TT-018/311382332
If you prefer the TT-30, ask for it. It's not a huge job to switch it over. Having them pay for the adapter might also be a reasonable solution.
Rich
Thanks - will chat with the electrician!
Kitty,
The outlet you have is for a clothes dryer not a 30 or 50 amp RV outlet. I have attached a pix of the standard 50-amp RV outlet which will work with the 50 to 30 amp adaptor that Rich sent you in his message. If the electrician said the wiring to the outlet is rated for 50-amps it must be 10-gauge or larger. If so, just have the electrician exchange the dryer socket with the 50-amp RV socket and change the breakers to 50 amps. Use the step down 50 to 30 amp adaptor and you are in business. If you ever decide to get a RV or have a friend stay that requires 50-amp you can accommodate that.
Home Depot carries a 120v/30 amp RV outlet, but I'm curious as to why they call it "temporary"
Also says you have to order a "hub" separately - not sure what this is? (says "Closure caps included, hubs ordered separately").
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-Electric-Products-30-Amp-Temporary-RV-Power-Outlet-U013P/202307113
Or how about this one?
RV 30 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA Tt-30R, 2P, 3W Power Receptacle Flush Mounting... (https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Mounting-Straight-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B07D1BQDN1/ref=asc_df_B07D1BQDN1?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470559180734&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070137919122&psc=1)
Or this?
RVGUARD 30 Amp 125 Volt RV Power Outlet Box, Enclosed Lockable Weatherproof... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YY5BV9W/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08YY5BV9W&pd_rd_w=JX4qB&pf_rd_p=085568d9-3b13-4ac1-8ae4-24a26c00cb0c&pd_rd_wg=seu87&pf_rd_r=3C6DR16NDPX9JRY1RCGR&pd_rd_r=6943bf90-3f3b-46be-99e6-698e8d3e8e3c&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSFdZVzFQVE9IQzlRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTM5ODMzVkJMSDRaODdLRkRDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDI5MzBPN0ZCRjZIVTc5TzUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl)
Does the 30-TT receptacle need to be 120v or 125v?
Signed,
Confused in Colorado
Electrician is saying he'll go down the hill and get supplies, fix it tomorrow - just want to get it right this time :-)
110v, 120v, and 125v all refer to the same thing for these purposes.
Confusing, for sure.
Rich
On to round #2 of the 30-amp RV receptacle installation tomorrow!
If at first you don't succeed...
... for some reason was starting to picture the RV going up in a massive poof of smoke :o
Thanks so much for clearing up my voltage confusion - guessing 110v is the minimum acceptable electrical "pressure" and 125v would be the max?
Thanks so much for clearing up my voltage confusion - guessing 110v is the minimum acceptable electrical "pressure" and 125v would be the max?
Standard 240V residential grid supply is split into two opposite phases of 120V each. Due to things in the household drawing power through the wiring, voltage drops are expected, which is why you may see a range of voltages listed, but 120 VAC is the standard. In the olden days, when residential supply did not always come from 240V transformers, 117 VAC was a standard.
Steve
Kitty, The electrician put in a NEMA 14-30 socket (for a clothes dryer) and needs to just replace it with a NEMA 14-50 socket (see photo) that is used in RV parks and would work with the 50 to 30 amp adapter that Rich suggested. Both sockets are the same size so no other modification to the housing is needed. When doing so, the electrician needs to replace the 30 amp breakers with 50 amp breakers in your power panel. Then you will be able to plug in your coach or anyone else's coach if the need be. It's okay to have the 50 amp breaker as the main breaker in your coach is 30 amp.
>:( Your "electrician" didn't read the manual! Link post redux:
https://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
I shared the manual with the electrician, thanks!
Apparently, I also should have read it more carefully 😸
Hoping we're all set!
Electrician returned this morning and installed the 30-TTR outlet (says my wanting wiring for 50 amps threw him and he just wasn't thinking about needing 110v).
Took him just a couple minutes to make the change.
Happy not to have to keep track of an adapter to use the outlet :-)
We now have the necessary wires in place should we later want to upgrade to a 50 amp outlet (would just need to replace the outlet and breakers).
We left the 30 amp two pole breaker in place for now.
Wondering if we need to disconnect or cap the "extra" live wire - electrician didn't seem to think this is a problem since it's attached to the breaker.
"Wondering if we need to disconnect or cap the "extra" live wire".
Yes, for the safety of someone in the future that might have to access the box, at the least the live wire should have a wire nut on it. IMO the electrician shouldn't have left it terminated at the breaker.
Thanks!
Didn't think about whether the wire should be capped until after the electrician left, but husband said it wouldn't be a problem for him to double check it and take care of it if needed.
When my husband opened it up the extra wire was already capped, so now we really, truly are all set and done!
Looking forward to having "Serendipity" at home from now on :-)
Hoping we're all set!
Electrician returned this morning and installed the 30-TTR outlet (says my wanting wiring for 50 amps threw him and he just wasn't thinking about needing 110v).
Took him just a couple minutes to make the change.
Happy not to have to keep track of an adapter to use the outlet :-)
We now have the necessary wires in place should we later want to upgrade to a 50 amp outlet (would just need to replace the outlet and breakers).
We left the 30 amp two pole breaker in place for now.
Wondering if we need to disconnect or cap the "extra" live wire - electrician didn't seem to think this is a problem since it's attached to the breaker.
If you look closely, the two breakers are made one by a metal tab which can be removed. Although it is okay as is, it would be more correct if you removed it.