I was able to obtain a covered (not enclosed) storage unit for the LD in town at a reasonable cost but since it is covered, the solar panel can’t maintain a charge to the house and engine batteries. However, electricity is available so I can plug in the RV cord using an adapter.
My question is, are there any consequences to leaving the converter-charger powered up all the time? Would it be better to just trickle charge the engine battery and disconnect the house batteries?
Leave the converter powered up continuously run the risk of hydrogen gas corrodes the battery terminals if you are using lead acid batteries. Please make sure the battery compartment is well ventilated. I am not sure if the converter charge engine battery in the newer LDs.
Leave the converter powered up continuously run the risk of hydrogen gas corrodes the battery terminals if you are using lead acid batteries. Please make sure the battery compartment is well ventilated. I am not sure if the converter charge engine battery in the newer LDs.
Thanks, these are AGM batteries and are in an outside compartment and ventilated. The newer LDs do charge the engine battery, I believe.
Hi Greg. AGM batterire aren't vented, no hydrogen gas is released, and the compartment is vented anyway.
The converter doesn't charge the chassis battery, but with topped off house batteries (converter), there may be enough solar to keep the chassis battery charged up. Looking at your picture, it isn't pitch dark all day. RonB
Thanks for that, Ron. Everyday is a learning experience when it comes to the LD! When I parked it yesterday, I looked at the solar controller and didn’t see any amps coming in, even though there was plenty of sunshine. I will double check that next time I’m there. Assuming there is not enough solar to keep the engine battery charged, am I better off trickle charging the engine and disconnecting the house batteries since there is only one outlet available to me? By the way, this is not a long term storage situation. I will be visiting and driving the rig at least monthly at a minimum.
Hi Greg; monthly driving for at least a half hour, will replace the power it took to start the engine, and a bit more. Leave the house batteries on.
You could connect a jumper from the house batteries to the chassis battery, and the converter will keep all three charged. They are all wet lead acid, and should do ok. Remove the jumper before starting the engine. You may have an AGM battery for a chassis battery. Some are that type. RonB
Greg,
The one or two hundred watt rooftop solar panels installed by LD are ok (I much prefer my current solar installation), but it’s important to understand that the solar array is primarily designed to FIRST charge the house batteries THEN if they are fully charged the solar array and controller will start topping off the chassis battery. This hard to do when days become shorter and the sun is lower in the sky.
Lead Acid batteries (AGM’s included) take quite some time to fully charge. If sun is of low abundance, there may not be enough time in the day to fully charge the chassis battery.
Remember that late model LDs dash 12volt outlets feed off of the chassis battery and can drain that battery rather quickly if used without running the engine. I know this from personal experience. 🥴
I keep my LD plugged in 24/7 using a surge protected cord as used at a CG. I have had issues keeping the chassis battery charged in the past when plugged in full time so the chassis battery may not be receiving a charge when plugged in to shore power if the house batteries are low so trickle charging may be a good idea.
Kent
"...FIRST charge the house batteries THEN ... will start topping off the chassis battery".
All true if you have the latest, greatest solar controller and a dedicated line to the chassis battery!
I unfortunately do NOT have that ability! But it is seldom that the engine/chassis battery gets low enough to not start the engine. If so, it's then time to get out the jump start device. :D
By the way, this is not a long term storage situation. I will be visiting and driving the rig at least monthly at a minimum.
Greg, if you are actually driving it at least once a month, I would turn off the breaker that powers the converter. The outlets will still allow you to run a small heater. However, if the once-a-month is just a short run, then leave the converter powered up. When you leave on a trip, turn the converter back on for battery charging when you have hookups.
Steve
Hi Greg. AGM batterire aren't vented, no hydrogen gas is released, and the compartment is vented anyway.
The converter doesn't charge the chassis battery, but with topped off house batteries (converter), there may be enough solar to keep the chassis battery charged up. Looking at your picture, it isn't pitch dark all day. RonB
I had covered storage and 120v available for 15 years and always left the LD plugged in, the converter on and the solar controller set on "shore power". Never had a problem. It seems to me that leaving the LD plugged in with converter on when stored is no different than plugging in at a campground and leaving everything "on". Please educate me if I am wrong.
Chris
Which way is the sun going at the rear of your MH? How about just an inexpensive portable solar panel sitting at the back of your unit to maintain the house battery?
Jon
Chris, not aware of a shore power setting on the Blue Sky controller. Perhaps yours is different, or perhaps I just missed it?
Thanks Jon, don’t think a solar panel would work in this situation and would possibly “walk away.”
Spring is almost here isn’t it?
Chris, not aware of a shore power setting on the Blue Sky controller. Perhaps yours is different, or perhaps I just missed it?
Thanks Jon, don’t think a solar panel would work in this situation and would possibly “walk away.”
Spring is almost here isn’t it?
It's an older HPV 22-B solar controller.
I had covered storage and 120v available for 15 years and always left the LD plugged in, the converter on and the solar controller set on "shore power". Never had a problem. It seems to me that leaving the LD plugged in with converter on when stored is no different than plugging in at a campground and leaving everything "on". Please educate me if I am wrong.
Chris
Chris, I believe you have flooded-cell batteries, whose advantage is that a drop in level can be adjusted, especially with a Pro-Fill, if there is an excess of charging and resultant electrolyte loss. AGMs are more vulnerable, and can be prematurely damaged irreparably under such conditions. LD has a checkered history with AGMs until they replaced the Heliotrope charge controller and basic converter with better units, so it may no longer be an issue - I just don't know. But, minimizing the converter running while in unattended short storage is just playing it safe.
Steve
There is an easy way to maintain the engine battery while running the coach converter/charger any time the coach is plugged into shore power. I have used the Trik-L-Start (TLS) bridging power device in several past motorhomes including our current LD. The unit senses a charging current at either the coach or engine battery and automatically connects the two to keep all batteries charged. It disconnects whenever there is no charging voltage available which prevents the engine battery from being drained when dry camped.
The best place to install the TLS is next to the bridging solenoid that LD installed under the plastic engine coolant tank located on the drivers side of the engine bay. The solenoid is activated when the ignition is on allowing the engine alternator to charge the coach batteries therefore both power systems are available at this point.
There are only 3-wires to attach from the TLS, one to the engine side of the solenoid, one to the coach battery side, and one to chassis ground (I attached this to the self tapping screw used to attach the TLS to the top of the wheel well (see photo). The TLS acts as a float charger for the engine battery regardless of what style battery is used. There also are status LEDs on the unit.
The product is not on Amazon but is available here:
Mega TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
Our weather is taking a turn for the better so I’ll be heading over to bring the LD back up to the house tomorrow. I’ll come up with a plan before I take it back so thanks for all the info and suggestions. Great to have such knowledgeable and experienced folks to answer my many questions. Thank you! 🙂
Greg when our 98~MB is not in use we park our LD in a hanger that has metal panels mixed with clear fiberglass panels. I can see a shadow of my hand next to the LD, but apparently that is not enough light for our 550 Watts of panels on the LD roof so we plug in shore power. We turn off the 12v charger in the panel and run a trickle charger which has a cigarette accessory plug I put on it and plug into the house batteries at a cig Accessory outlet. We can also plug that charger into the chassis cig accessory to charge that battery. last fall I installed a new progressive dynamics panel to replace the old defective original one. The new PD charger is stepped for charging and maintaining batteries but out of habit we use the plug in trickle charger. We have two LD installed coach lead acid batteries under the floor of our dinette and two additional led acid batteries in a sealed vented to outside container under the forward dinette seat. The trickle charger has worked for us in this application. Our next upgrade may be to lithium in a few years or if the need requires sooner.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
The converter doesn't charge the chassis battery, but with topped off house batteries (converter), there may be enough solar to keep the chassis battery charged up. Looking at your picture, it isn't pitch dark all day. RonB
Ron, picked up the LD from storage today and verified no solar input from my one panel.
There is an easy way to maintain the engine battery while running the coach converter/charger any time the coach is plugged into shore power. I have used the Trik-L-Start (TLS) bridging power device in several past motorhomes including our current LD. The unit senses a charging current at either the coach or engine battery and automatically connects the two to keep all batteries charged. It disconnects whenever there is no charging voltage available which prevents the engine battery from being drained when dry camped.
The best place to install the TLS is next to the bridging solenoid that LD installed under the plastic engine coolant tank located on the drivers side of the engine bay. The solenoid is activated when the ignition is on allowing the engine alternator to charge the coach batteries therefore both power systems are available at this point.
There are only 3-wires to attach from the TLS, one to the engine side of the solenoid, one to the coach battery side, and one to chassis ground (I attached this to the self tapping screw used to attach the TLS to the top of the wheel well (see photo). The TLS acts as a float charger for the engine battery regardless of what style battery is used. There also are status LEDs on the unit.
The product is not on Amazon but is available here:
Mega TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
Mike, that product looks interesting to me and I’m thinking of purchasing it but when I go to the TSL website, it’s not secure. Did you have that issue also?
Edit: Never mind, it’s secure once you go to the ordering page.
I have to chime in about Greg's original question about storing his rig and batteries. Some people sure seem to like to make things complicated; me, I believe in the K.I,S.S. (keep it simple stupid) method.
When you store your rig inside or covered, use a battery disconnect switch. What can be easier than opening the battery compartment and turning a key to turn off the house batteries? As long as your batteries were fully charged and there is no draw on them, they should be fine for months. Want to exercise the genset? Open the battery compartment and turn on the batteries and start the genset.
The truck battery should hold its charge in storage too. Maybe the newest rigs have some draw on the chassis battery from the more sophisticated electronics built in to the truck. Our 2003 goes into hibernation in November and gets uncovered in April. The truck battery has never failed to start the engine and the house batteries do just fine turned off except they are turned on for genset exercise.
It ain't rocket science..
Steve K.
I second Mike Coachman’s suggestion of using a Trik-l-Start. It will either charge or trickle charge the chassis battery. Worked great for me. Another option is to just disconnect the negative cable while in storage. Just loosen nut and pull off connector. When reconnecting Ford wants you to start the engine at least 15 minutes after reconnecting negative terminal.
BTW your LD looks awesome!!
Ron
I second Mike Coachman’s suggestion of using a Trik-l-Start. It will either charge or trickle charge the chassis battery. Worked great for me. Another option is to just disconnect the negative cable while in storage. Just loosen nut and pull off connector. When reconnecting Ford wants you to start the engine at least 15 minutes after reconnecting negative terminal.
BTW your LD looks awesome!!
Thanks, Ron! I did order the TLS but since it draws from the house batteries, will it work if the house batteries are disconnected (I have a disconnect switch)?
If concerned about overcharging the batteries, use a timer set to operate the converter for one hour each day. On the same timer, run a trickle charger for the starting battery or use a Trik-L-Start, as Mike suggested.
For years I left the converter on, when parked, without any problems. I now leave the converter off, when parked at home, and let the solar keep the batteries charged. the 3000I solar control also charges the engine battery.
Larry
Hi Greg; The TLS will not charge the chassis battery if the house batteries aren't above 13.2 volts. With house batteries disconnected, the solar will still be trying to charge them, and may provide enough power for the TLS to keep the chassis battery up. But you don't need the TLS.
You worry too much. You don't need the Trick-L-Start, your year (2017) has the SB-R3000i solar controller, which LD hooked up the aux output to charge the chassis battery. You are not parked in a cave, or inside a dark building. RonB
I edited this to remove the part about disconnecting the house batteries, because yo want them connected, unless you open the connection to the solar panels. The SB3000i uses the batteries to reference its output voltages.
Greg
A lot of good advice here!! Let’s do a little investigation.
1) Since your solar doesn’t provide charging under the cover it will not help you charge anything while in storage. If you can disconnect the solar do that. With a volt meter measure and write down the chassis and coach batteries. Plug in the 120v at storage and recheck the voltage across the house and chassis batteries. If they increase they are charging. They should be around 13.6v - 14.2V on both depending on battery charge condition if charging. Around 13.0v or less it is not charging.
2) If coach and chassis batteries are charging and your LD charger is a 3 or 4 stage charger you should be good to leave it plugged in.
3) If coach battery is charging and chassis battery is not charging and your LD charger is a 3 or 4 stage charger, install TLS. After TLS installed you should be good to leave it plugged in.
4) If your LD charger is NOT a 3 or 4 stage charger DO not leave it plugged in, Do not install TLS. Your charger will over charge your coach and chassis batteries if you leave it plugged in.
5) For #4 situation or for any other scenario you can just disconnect coach batteries and remove negative terminal of chassis battery and the batteries should be ok between your monthly exercising. Chassis battery will drain down after 2-3 weeks if left attached as electronic diagnostics and such are ran by the engine. Eventually the life of the chassis battery will be impacted if drained down too far.
6) I would be surprised if you don’t have 3 or 4 stage charger. If you don’t you should consider getting one installed. It is too easy to overcharge batteries while plugged in for long times.
7) When you disconnect your storage power cord to exercise the LD, reconnect solar if you disconnected in #1.
8) I used these plug in volt meters to monitor chassis and coach batteries at a glance. Very useful.
12V 24V Digital Voltmeter Plug Red Volt Meter Car SUV Cigarette Lighter -... (https://www.walmart.com/ip/12V-24V-Digital-Voltmeter-Plug-Red-Volt-Meter-Car-SUV-Cigarette-Lighter/492443536?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl12=492443536_10001072048&wl14=Cigarette%20plug%20in%20volt%20meters&veh=sem&msclkid=e3ab31c397001a9763a5519c1d54a523&gclid=e3ab31c397001a9763a5519c1d54a523&gclsrc=3p.ds)
Good Luck and have some fun!
Ron
Hi Ron; The engine computer doesn't do anything except keep values in memory while the engine isn't running. Before I put in a Trik-L-Start, my engine battery could go months without running, and still start the engine, and the batteries lasted 6-7 years. Of course I don't have freezing temperatures.
As Larry stated, put a timer on the shore power cord for an hour a day, and with a TLS, all the batteries will be happy. The solar control board (SB3000i) uses the 12v. dc reference of the house batteries to control it's voltage outputs, both house and chassis. Greg should turn off the PV panels before disconnecting the house batteries. RonB
“As Larry stated, put a timer on the shore power cord for an hour a day, and with a TLS, all the batteries will be happy. The solar control board (SB3000i) uses the 12v. dc reference of the house batteries to control it's voltage outputs, both house and chassis. Greg should turn off the PV panels before disconnecting the house batteries. RonB
[/quote]”
Good suggestion on turning off the PV panels. I modified my #7 to take that into consideration.
Timer is good. But if one has a smart charger installed it should properly charge the batteries with no adverse impact. The timer is good if one wants to be super cautious. It also could reduce the need to add water to the batteries is one has those type of batteries.
I recently sold my 2010 Phoenix Cruiser and it would drain drain over several weeks which is why I installed TLS. No more drain. Probably the great mystery that is different for different model years. What ever works, works!! LOL
I follow the KISS method also!!
Ron
Just installed the Trik-L-Start device and am monitoring it now. Thanks again for all your advice.
Good install Greg! Looks just like mine.
"It seems to me that leaving the LD plugged in with converter on when stored is no different than plugging in at a campground and leaving everything 'on'."
The difference is between a few days or a week at a campground, and perhaps several months when stored over the winter.
I was able to obtain a covered (not enclosed) storage unit for the LD in town at a reasonable cost but since it is covered, the solar panel can’t maintain a charge to the house and engine batteries. However, electricity is available so I can plug in the RV cord using an adapter.
My question is, are there any consequences to leaving the converter-charger powered up all the time? Would it be better to just trickle charge the engine battery and disconnect the house batteries?
Love that picture - I spy a Trailmanor sitting beside you! That is what I have - until I can find a LD :)
Cheers,
Sara
Love that picture - I spy a Trailmanor sitting beside you! That is what I have - until I can find a LD :)
Cheers,
Sara
Trickle Chargers vs Disconnect Switches (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=35878.msg225029#msg225029)
Love that picture - I spy a Trailmanor sitting beside you! That is what I have - until I can find a LD :)
Yes, that’s a Trail Manor which gives me lots of room on that side. There is now a big 5th wheel on the other side so a little tight on the passenger side.
A few years back, I added this little knife switch to the engine battery. Works perfectly and easy to install yourself.
I also keep Dazy Mae under full cover. Keeping as much sun as you can off the paint, sealants, rubber and decals will keep her looking her best for years to come. I've not had any issues with house batteries keeping or being charged with the 1, LD factory, original (1999) solar panel, even though its covered when stored.
BTW ... If they have more spots available, I would be interested. Losing my space of 13 years, bicycle distance from my house, $125 month ::)
Amazon.com: Battery Doctor Knife Switch Top Post Battery Disconnect for Auto... (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Doctor-Disconnect-Vehicle-Negative/dp/B07TRQ8YXP/ref=sr_1_16?crid=30XYGGYW43TZK&dchild=1&keywords=auto+battery+switch+disconnect&qid=1619999362&sprefix=auto+battery+switch%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-16)
Purchased these tire covers from Amazon and installed them today to check for fit, although where currently parked at, they are not really needed. The fit is good and they seem to be a thicker material. I’ve had the white ones on previous RVs and they always got pretty trashy looking after a short time so I thought I would try a different color. They are a dark grayish color:
Amazon.com: Explore Land Tire Covers 4 Pack - Large (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N56YFMS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details)
Greg,
Thank you for posting the pics. I was looking at these covers myself. By the looks of them, they seem a little larger than needed. Kinda wonder if a size smaller would be too small. I also wonder if the cover will tighten with time.
I don’t mind returning items to Amazon but after seeing what they do with returned merchandise, I’d rather get it right the first time.
When selecting the size, did you measure the tire or go by the manufacturers guidelines? Nice color choice.
Kent
Hi Kent. I think Larry W. told me in a different thread that the diameter of our tires is 29" so I went with the large size. They are a bit loose but I don't think they'll get blown off. Our Tehachapi winds will give them a good test and, if need be, I'll bungee them.
I think the medium's might also work but may have to be stretched a bit. If you order the medium size, let us know how they work!
Amazon.com: Explore Land Tire Covers 4 Pack - Medium (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRBYG4?ie=UTF8&tag=scmcldo-20&th=1)
A YMMV comment: The white tire covers may not be cosmetically appealing, particularly after many years of use, but white reflects heat better than dark grey or black. Pretty much any "tire cover", e.g., a piece of plywood or cardboard, will block UV, but heat is also a major tire killer.
As noted, YMMV.....
Wanting to protect my new tires from the ground while parked at home, and after looking at the current prices of plywood at Home Depot, :o I ran across these rubber mats and purchased two of them. They are very dense, heavy duty mats so am going to give them a try. They are wide enough to cut one 12” section off to use for the front tires, with the remaining section wide enough to be used for the rear tires.
Ok, I’ll bite, what is wrong with tires contacting the ground?
Yes, plywood is insanely expensive lately, my son in law is paying a small fortune to do their basement this year.
Ok, I’ll bite, what is wrong with tires contacting the ground?
Yes, plywood is insanely expensive lately, my son in law is paying a small fortune to do their basement this year.
Dave, I've just always heard it's a good practice when storing an RV. Here's a short article that addresses it, although my driveway is dirt/gravel, not asphalt. Maybe I just worry too much and others while chime in?
https://www.rvtravel.com/protect-your-rv-tires-especially-when-parked/
"I've just always heard it's a good practice when storing an RV."
Greg
My 2004 has spent most of it's life sitting in my side yard, first upon a dirt/gravel mix and the last 5 years on a concrete pad. I do lift the front slightly because I leave the fridge on 24/7 but all 6 tires are making contact with no issues over time.
There was a day, and I may be dating myself, when tires that sat for long periods would develop 'flat spots' so that for the first few miles you would think you were riding a lumber wagon. Thankfully those days are gone! ::) ;)
I swapped out the three-quarter inch plywood that I had been parking on for the rubber mats that I recently purchased. The plywood just wasn’t holding up very well to the weight of the motorhome, bending and even cracking. I think this will be a better solution when parked at home.