I kept hearing about this difficult/impossible to find, the 12V Manual Reset breaker.
Looked under the frig, as some had suggested for the MB models. Nope.
After reading a POST from a few months back - one of you scholarly men/woman pointed out that the Reset Breaker was under the dining table seat! What?
Removing the cushion to the forward most seat, I realized that 1/2 of the storage under that seat is covered with a piece of plywood. And, it is screwed down.
Most would say, "why would you put a reset device under a panel that requires you to unscrew it - to view it".
After removing the four (4) small screws, the hold contains a sealed battery box for the house batteries, a junction box for wiring, the secret 12V reset breaker, and a good look at one end of the house fresh water tank.
So here are the photos for those of you looking for this secret Reset Breaker with a 27' (ours is 2010) Rear Bath.
Cheers!
Tony R. (aka codefour)
Hmmm . . . wonder where mine is? Thanks for sharing, Tony!
If you folks will send in pictures to this thread of where the reset switch is for other floor plans I will add them to The Companion.
How about Codefour letting me know by DM when the photo set is complete?
In our 2021 RB the breaker is now mounted on the left side rear wall of the battery box. There is no breakers outside of the box. (see photos)
In our 2021 RB the breaker is now mounted on the left side rear wall of the battery box. There is no breakers outside of the box. (see photos)
I guess that's why it's secret; it keeps moving around every year. ;)
In our 2011 Mid Bath the breaker is located on the cabinet structural member that divides the refrigerator stack from the stove. It’s rather difficult to access. I ran into it while installing a battery monitor (Balmar SG200).
In the first photo showing the open cabinet under the fridge, the circuit breaker is to the left when looking in. A side panel must first be removed (attached with four screws). Note that in the photo, the back panel is removed, exposing the plastic battery compartment housing.
The second photo shows the bottom of the cabinet structural member that separates the refrigerator from the stove. The white mass to the right is the fresh water tank.
The third photo is a closeup of the circuit breaker. The reset button is barely visible on the left side.
Jim
Jim, I took out the drawer above that cabinet yesterday but wasn't able to locate it. Saw a bunch of wiring back there since the battery box is there. I'll have to take another look.
Hi, Greg.
Here's a photo with the drawer out. It's now obvious to me that that's the intended way to access the breaker. Breaker is bottom left in the photo.
Jim
If you folks will send in pictures to this thread of where the reset switch is for other floor plans I will add them to The Companion.
How about Codefour letting me know by DM when the photo set is complete?
Don, here are pictures of the 12V circuit breaker/reset switch in our 2007 TK. It is under the refrigerator on the wall to the left. It can be seen after the large drawer is pulled out from under the refrigerator. The back of the battery box is on the left, the power center is below, and the water heater is on the right.
Charles
While these pictures are coming in, I wish one of the electrical gurus would explain how they get tripped.
Simple words, please
and those sending pictures, please say what floor plan it is.
I recognize the one from Jim as being a MB.
While these pictures are coming in, I wish one of the electrical gurus would explain how they get tripped.
Simple words, please
And, are 12V circuit breakers GFCI protected?
And, are 12V circuit breakers GFCI protected?
Only the one 120-volt circuit, controlled through the single 120-VAC GFI breaker, is protected.
I have never seen a 12-volt GFI.
Larry
And, are 12V circuit breakers GFCI protected?
"What is a GFI Outlet?
Short for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, a GFI (also known as GFCI) is a type of electrical outlet designed to protect you and your family against electrical shock, fire, and/or fatal electrocution. Your GFCI outlet (receptacle) monitors the flow of current. If it detects a ground fault -- an unintentional electrical path to the ground -- it will immediately cut the power, to protect anyone in physical contact with the electrical system."
12V won't electrocute you. Unless you stick your tongue on both 12V leads it won't shock you (ask me how I know). The 12V circuit breaker is to protect from a potential fire if a direct short occurs and hundreds of amps are discharged into the wiring.
Charles
So I looked in the cabinet under the fridge and saw the four screws holding the back panel so I took those off but found nothing. Then I noticed two screws holding in the side panel adjacent to the oven, so I removed those and still didn’t find anything, except where the spiders like to hang out! :o
I then went outside and looked in the battery box and saw a breaker with a reset button. Is this it?
"If you folks will send in pictures to this thread of where the reset switch is for other floor plans I will add them to The Companion."
Excellent idea, Don! I really wish Lazy Daze would not hide a crucial circuit breaker and--worse--not document the location.
Tony, here's a thought: it looks as if it would be simple to drill a hole (maybe with a 1" hole saw?) in the plywood panel right above that circuit breaker, allowing easy access without removing the panel. Then if it were me, I'd put a label on the plywood next to the hole, and another one on the front of the dinette seat above the cat bowls where it would be visible without removing the seat cushion.
I'm a big believer in labeling, because I know from experience that otherwise I won't remember six months or a year down the road. I carry a Brother label maker (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brother+label+maker&i=office-products&ref=nb_sb_noss_1) everywhere I go. You can get these for as little as twenty five bucks, but having tried several models, I ended up with the PTD-600, (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OCEKCB2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which has an excellent, highly readable backlit display.
I then went outside and looked in the battery box and saw a breaker with a reset button. Is this it?
I believe it is. Our's is only 50A. Do you have the Owner's Manual?
Charles
I then went outside and looked in the battery box and saw a breaker with a reset button. Is this it?
It looks like LD finally got smart and put the thermal breaker where is can be easily accessed.
It's something an electrically handy person could add to an older LD, replacingthe hedden breaker.
Larry
I believe it is. Our's is only 50A. Do you have the Owner's Manual?
I do, Charles, but it only mentions the 120V breakers, unless I just missed it.
I do, Charles, but it only mentions the 120V breakers, unless I just missed it.
The last page in our manual is DIAGRAM #5 showing the 12V wiring including the DC Power Contactor, Batteries, Battery Breaker, House Breaker, etc.
Charles
Hi, Greg.
Here's a photo with the drawer out. It's now obvious to me that that's the intended way to access the breaker. Breaker is bottom left in the photo.
Jim
This breaker is automatic reset type, normally requires no manual intervention. The only time it needs attention is a serious short circuit occurred, forcing it to constantly trigger. In that case, a detailed troubleshoot is needed to find where is the short in the 12v circuits.
The last page in our manual is DIAGRAM #5 showing the 12V wiring including the DC Power Contactor, Batteries, Battery Breaker, House Breaker, etc.
OK, I see it. Says it’s 50 amp and located within 18” of the batteries. I guess they are using a 90 amp now and placing it in the battery box.
OK, I see it. Says it’s 50 amp and located within 18” of the batteries. I guess they are using a 90 amp now and placing it in the battery box.
Could this have been an undocumented mid-year running change? If so, I wonder if affected 2017 model-year buyers were informed. Seems strange to me.
Charles
This breaker is automatic reset type, normally requires no manual intervention.
It is NOT an automatic reset breaker in our 2007, neither 12V breakers are. Where did you get that info? Is yours an auto-reset?
Charles
All the pictures I saw today indicated it is an automatic reset type, same as the one in my photo. My 2004 MB is in the same location as shown in the picture posted by Jim, showing it hiding behind the drawer below the fridge. There is NO reset button on this type of circuit breaker. It has an internal electric magnet pull the circuit open when the dc current exceeds 50amp. Then close the circuit when temperature cools down, therefore, automatically reset. This type of ARB (automatic reset breaker) is widely used in automotive industry.
The photo in Jim’s post (reply #5) shows a black reset button on the left side. The Lazy Daze diagram says it’s a manual reset. Am I missing something here?
This breaker is automatic reset type, normally requires no manual intervention. The only time it needs attention is a serious short circuit occurred, forcing it to constantly trigger. In that case, a detailed troubleshoot is needed to find where is the short in the 12v circuits.
That is not the breaker that is in our, Tony's, and Jim's LD.
Do you have a name?
Charles
My 2004 MB has the identical circuit breaker in the exact same location but does not have any button on it to reset. The lazy Daze manual also says a manual reset breaker but it is actually an automatically one. I bought my MB from John and Mary White who used to be members of this group. They were the original owner. I am also puzzled.
I am also puzzled.
Me too. Ours has a reset button. It is a Type III breaker. Here is a description ... "Type III is where you'll generally find manual and push-to-trip breakers. All Type III breakers will have a visual indication that the breaker is tripped on the body to better diagnose short circuits and other issues. It's also generally where you'll find the highest amps. For safety purposes, Type III are probably the most effective." "Type I is automatic, while Type II is also automatic in a sense. Most Type II breakers will reset when the ignition is turned off, or the overload is removed, making them perfect for systems that only need breakers when the engine is on."
The reset button may be difficult to see in some floor plans.
Have you ever tripped your breaker? We never have.
Charles
Ladies and Gentlemen & Don Malpas (who has volunteered the post these in the Companion)
I can only attest that these photos below are for a 27' - 2010 Rear Bath Model. Can't help you for other models.
Some of you are confusing the massive 150 amp Photo #6 (or similarly high Buss with no reset) with the 12V Secret Reset Breaker.
For some reason the 12V Secret Reset Breaker is located within 18 inches of the battery box in the LD Manual.
If nothing comes of this other than you seek and find your own "Secret 12V Button" on your unit.
Covid-19 does strange stuff to us these days. This is like an old timey Mystery or Scavenger Hunt. Have fun my friends and take your minds off of the other.
Most respectfully,
Tony R. (aka codefour)
Sorry for some duplicate photos above. I got happy fingers all of a sudden!
Tony R (aka codefour)
Here is the manual reset button in my (former) 2003 MB. This is behind the panel to the left of the drawer underneath the refrigerator. You'll have to remove the drawer to get to it. I had trouble finding it, too, but thanks to Andy was finally able to locate it. I think most of you are looking right at it but are missing it because it's difficult to see. I did that, too, initially.
Charles and Greg: The picture supplied by Greg (reply 13, last picture) shows two side by side breakers in the battery box. The left one says on it '90 Amps'. The picture cuts off the left breaker, so I can't read the current rating. The 42 volts reflects the maximum voltage. More than enough for 12V DC batteries. The one on the right has bigger wires, so I'm going to assume it is a 150 Amp breaker. (When Kent replaced his AGM's with 5 BB lithium batteries, he gave me the leftover breakers/switches. )
One was 150 Amps. it comes from the engine alternator, to protect the wire. I assume the alternator has a fuse to protect it, closer to the alternator in the Ford wiring. It can't be switched off, but can be reset if it trips. The 90 Amp goes to the converter/distribution (fuses) center. It has a yellow or red button. When pressed, it shuts off, and a lever flips out on the left side (in this picture). pushing in the lever, resets the breaker.
Older motorhomes like mine came with self resetting breakers. They would trip, but when they cooled off would reset. If there was a short it would trip again and reset continually. If the overload was temporary, i.e. you plugged something in like a 12 Vdc toaster oven, or 12v hair drier, then the self reset feature would cure the problem. Many cars had headlights with a similar breaker. in the '80's having both headlights shut off at once was deemed a safety hazard. So newer cars have a separate breaker for each headlight. I have followed cars at night with one headlight shutting off, and coming back on.
Newer motorhomes than my '99 have the resettable breakers with the little black button. Now you need to know that there is one, and where it is, but LD hasn't updated the labeling. More modern LD's have the lever action, vapor and water proof breakers like Greg had in that picture.
Don: Breakers heat up while operating. The heat is a function of the current the breaker was designed to control. Too much current, trips the breaker and requires a reset, and notifies you that there may be a problem. Sometimes breakers running at the edge of their envelope will change characteristics and trip too soon. Usually it is a fucntion of too many things running at once. Such as an inverter, converter/charger, water pump, audio visual TV/sound system, chargers, etc. Individual loads on each branch circuit may be ok, and not 'pop' the separate fuses, but taken together, may trip the main breaker at the battery.
I installed my own solar panels and controller. I put in a 30 amp, but my panels can only produce 9 amps. It is to protect the wires. They are connected into the distribution panel. I'm expanding my solar by 200 watts, so I will increase my breaker, and insure that it has a shut off type for when I change out the batteries. (to protect the SB3000i as noted in that manual) RonB
I just reconfirmed the "secret breaker" is the automatic type. In fact, I realize this in 2014 when I upgraded our solar electric system and found this breaker. I installed a 440 AH lithium battery pack, a TriStar solar charger, and a Magnum 2kw pure sine wave inverter/charger in this location below the fridge. I can no longer show a picture of this "secret breaker" without remove some of these stuff. However I did purchase a spare breaker just in case the automatic breaker malfunctions. The photo was shown in my previous post.
I think either Mothership installed this automatic breaker or someone changed it when Mr. and Mrs. White have the first single solar panel system put in. Anyway, this discussion help many owners realize this breaker's location and important function protect the 12v electric system.
I forgot to mention we purchased our 2004 MB from Mr. and Mrs. White in 2011 at 92k+ miles. Started our full timer tour of USA in 2012. Our MB is now at 170k+ miles. I am new to this group to learn while contributing.
well, this is getting confusing to this old man.
I have a 2007MB and I know the reset switch is under the refer. Someone posted a picture of it above.
I also have this thing in the battery box. Always wondered what it was. You know?
well, this is getting confusing to this old man.
I have a 2007MB and I know the reset switch is under the refer. Someone posted a picture of it above.
I also have this thing in the battery box. Always wondered what it was. You know?
Don,
This is just one of the breakers. This one is easy to see. The other one is located inside. You must remove the drawer below the fridge. Then look leftward, the small breaker is there. You can see it with a flashlight. A clear photo of this breaker is attached in Fern Horst's post on this page.
Charles and Greg: The picture supplied by Greg (reply 13, last picture) shows two side by side breakers in the battery box. The left one says on it '90 Amps'. The picture cuts off the left breaker, so I can't read the current rating. The 42 volts reflects the maximum voltage. More than enough for 12V DC batteries. The one on the right has bigger wires, so I'm going to assume it is a 150 Amp breaker. (When Kent replaced his AGM's with 5 BB lithium batteries, he gave me the leftover breakers/switches. )
Your assumption is correct, Ron. Here is the right side breaker. Don, I’m glad I’m not the only one who gets confused with electrical stuff!
OK, I asked what it was, you said a breaker. I should have asked how does it come into play?
One has Thermal Circuit Breaker on it. I guess that means it gets hot, it trips. What gets it hot? A short? Can it be reset? How is it different from the secret one inside?
The circuit "breaker" protect electric system by monitoring electric current with a calibrated resister, when the current exceeds a pre-determined level, say 50amps, the heat generated by the resister will trigger a electric magnet to cutoff the electric current (load). This protect the circuits from fire when a short or overload occurs.
In the case of a short occurred, the breaker would be triggered. You must press the reset button to reconnect the electric circuit after repair the short.
Charles and Greg: The picture supplied by Greg (reply 13, last picture) shows two side by side breakers in the battery box. The left one says on it '90 Amps'. The picture cuts off the left breaker, so I can't read the current rating. The 42 volts reflects the maximum voltage. More than enough for 12V DC batteries. The one on the right has bigger wires, so I'm going to assume it is a 150 Amp breaker. (When Kent replaced his AGM's with 5 BB lithium batteries, he gave me the leftover breakers/switches. )
RonB
Ron, you are correct. The breaker on the right in that picture (the one cutoff) is a PN 184150F 150A 42V thermal circuit breaker. It is installed in the cable from the house battery positive terminal to the DC Power Contactor in the engine compartment. The breaker LD installed in our coach is a 120 Amp version of the same type.
Charles
OK, So after 13 years I know what the black thing in the battery box is and that it can be reset by pressing on it.
But, it seems to duplicate the hidden breaker.
Larry seems to allude to that
It looks like LD finally got smart and put the thermal breaker where it can be easily accessed.
It's something an electrically handy person could add to an older LD, replacing the hidden breaker.
Same function?
OK, So after 13 years I know what the black thing in the battery box is and that it can be reset by pressing on it.
But, it seems to duplicate the hidden breaker.
No, it is in addition to the "hidden" breaker. The "hidden" breaker protects a different circuit than the breaker in the battery box does in older LDs like ours.
Charles
No, it is in addition to the "hidden" breaker. The "hidden" breaker protects a different circuit than the breaker in the battery box does in older LDs like ours.
Charles
OK, this is starting to make sense to me and that's scary.
I take it the digram is from the owner's manual - too lazy to go out in the cold to see.
Thanks for that.
So the breaker in the battery compartment protects the batteries from too many amps coming from the alternator?
And the breaker inside protects against fire from too many amps coming inside.
I take it the digram is from the owner's manual - too lazy to go out in the cold to see.
Thanks for that.
So the breaker in the battery compartment protects the batteries from too many amps coming from the alternator?
And the breaker inside protects against fire from too many amps coming inside.
Yes, as I stated the diagram is from our 2007 LD. Your manual has the same diagram.
No, there is no alternator in the diagram. The alternator has it's own fuse for protection of the Ford chassis and also a voltage regulator.
The orange exciter wire on the DC Contactor in the diagram comes from the ignition switch. It simply triggers the DC Contactor to connect the house battery bank to the chassis battery so the engine alternator can also charge the house battery bank when the engine is running.
As already stated, both these breakers protect the LD wiring, not the Ford. They are protecting the primary 12V circuits in the house part of of your LD. The Ford chassis already has such protection for itself as if comes from Ford.
Both these breakers protect from excessive and possibly catastrophic current draw or shorts in the primary 12V systems in your LD that could result in fire and/or destruction. The 12V fuses in the power center do the same for each secondary circuit they are on but at much lower levels.
Your house battery bank can deliver much more energy that a standard auto starting battery is capable of.
That is why the house breakers are such key electrical protection mechanisms for your LD.
Charles
"both these breakers protect the LD wiring, not the Ford. They are protecting the primary 12V circuits in the house part of of your LD."
Thanks for clarifying, Charles. What I don't understand is why there are two breakers protecting the 12 VDC systems. That means the 12V systems must be split into two branches, one per breaker. This doesn't jibe with what I remember from my 2003 midbath. In that rig, all 12 V power came from a single battery wire feeding into the Parallax power center. A single 12V breaker, mounted under the refrigerator, protected that wire.
It sounds as if things must have changed since my midbath was built. Can you help me understand what each of the two breakers under discussion here protects?
"both these breakers protect the LD wiring, not the Ford. They are protecting the primary 12V circuits in the house part of of your LD."
Thanks for clarifying, Charles. What I don't understand is why there are two breakers protecting the 12 VDC systems. That means the 12V systems must be split into two branches, one per breaker. This doesn't jibe with what I remember from my 2003 midbath. In that rig, all 12 V power came from a single battery wire feeding into the Parallax power center. A single 12V breaker, mounted under the refrigerator, protected that wire.
It sounds as if things must have changed since my midbath was built. Can you help me understand what each of the two breakers under discussion here protects?
Andy, replying via my cell phone (first time). We're dining outside at an establishment that has been banned from doing so. We're in Southern California. I will give a proper response tomorrow. You are the electrical guru here, not I.
Charles
I dug out my 2004 MB circuit diagram which is slight different from the 2007 version. The diode isolator in 04MB was replaced by an ignition excited contact switch in 07MB. The large breaker on the left (100A in 04MB) protects dc wiring circuits to the diode isolator/contact switch and wiring to the gas generator. Any short occurred in that side of the wiring would trigger this breaker. The 50 amp breaker on the right protects the rest of dc distribution circuits in the motorhome.
Interesting to see Mothership made these changes over time...
Another reason mothership select a large breaker (100 or 120 amp) is the 12v dc starter in the gas generator can draw very high current, therefore, require large capacity, while the rest of motorhome require protection at much lower current capacity.
Well, there seems to be no end to this. I was going to include some of this conversation about the function of the breakers along with the pictures showing the location of the hidden breakers. But, while interesting, the discussion confuses the heck out of me. I am thinking some of you may be engineers and we all know about them. Smile. It has to be explained in terms that any audience can understand.
Meanwhile, only 2 or 3 location pictures have been sent in. Looks like this has died on the vine. I may start a new thread asking for pictures to be sent directly to me and ask Chris to lock the thread.
PS Charles, that the alternator sends volts to the batteries through the cables shown is good enough for me, even it is not shown in the diagram.
Original exterior 2021 RB Lazydaze battery box minus the two Lifeline 6V batteries. The four breakers left to right are power to the Bigfoot leveling jacks pump; power to the Progressive Dynamics converter/charger; power to the Onan 4K watt gas generator; and the connector to the solenoid to the Ford engine battery & alternator.
Interesting. So Lazy Daze added a breaker to the generator 12V line. Makes sense. Anyone know when that change was implemented?
Charles
I dug out my 2004 MB circuit diagram which is slight different from the 2007 version. The diode isolator in 04MB was replaced by an ignition excited contact switch in 07MB. The large breaker on the left (100A in 04MB) protects dc wiring circuits to the diode isolator/contact switch and wiring to the gas generator. Any short occurred in that side of the wiring would trigger this breaker.
Actually, this is incorrect - I guess you are assuming the 100A breaker is effectively between the chassis battery and the generator. However any short in the run to the engine compartment would go no further than the isolator. There is no protection shown on the line to the generator, so any short occuring there would cause a danger of fire in the battery compartment - a calculated risk. Likewise, there is no fuse in the chassis run from the chassis battery to the starter solenoid...
Steve
"both these breakers protect the LD wiring, not the Ford. They are protecting the primary 12V circuits in the house part of of your LD."
Thanks for clarifying, Charles. What I don't understand is why there are two breakers protecting the 12 VDC systems. That means the 12V systems must be split into two branches, one per breaker. This doesn't jibe with what I remember from my 2003 midbath. In that rig, all 12 V power came from a single battery wire feeding into the Parallax power center. A single 12V breaker, mounted under the refrigerator, protected that wire.
It sounds as if things must have changed since my midbath was built. Can you help me understand what each of the two breakers under discussion here protects?
Andy, I do not claim to an electrical expert nor an electrician. I apologize for such a treatise but you asked “...what each of the two breakers under discussion here protects?”
There are two separate 12V systems in a Lazy Daze; the house and the chassis. They are only connected when the Isolator or Contactor is triggered by the ignition switch. This circuit is a direct connection between the house and chassis battery positive terminals. Its purpose is to allow the chassis alternator (which is also connected to the chassis battery positive terminal) to also charge the house battery bank, if needed. The breaker in that circuit protects from a potential fire along its entire path.
Let me summarize what Blue Sea Systems has to say about protecting DC circuits.
If more current flows in a wire than the wire is rated to handle, the wire can heat up, its protective insulation can melt, and the heated wire can start a fire. This overcurrent condition can occur, for example, when a short circuit occurs. Fuses and circuit breakers are used to limit the amount of current that flows through circuit wires.
Except for those wires that are intended to carry starting currents, every positive wire in the DC main power distribution system must be protected. The goal of overcurrent protection is to provide protection at the source of power for each circuit. With DC circuits, the overcurrent protection is always placed in the positive side. Circuit protection should be connected as close as possible to the source of power.
Lazy Daze seems to loosely follow the American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards for boat building and repair.
The ABYC recommends that
each ungrounded conductor connected to a battery, battery charger, alternator, or other charging source, shall be provided with overcurrent protection within a specified distance of the point of connection to the DC electrical system or to the battery.
I assume that is why Lazy Daze installed two breakers (and now three).
Charles
Andy, I do not claim to an electrical expert nor an electrician. I apologize for such a treatise but you asked “...what each of the two breakers under discussion here protects?”
There are two separate 12V systems in a Lazy Daze; the house and the chassis. They are only connected when the Isolator or Contactor is triggered by the ignition switch. This circuit is a direct connection between the house and chassis battery positive terminals. Its purpose is to allow the chassis alternator (which is also connected to the chassis battery positive terminal) to also charge the house battery bank, if needed. The breaker in that circuit protects from a potential fire along its entire path.
Let me summarize what Blue Sea Systems has to say about protecting DC circuits.
If more current flows in a wire than the wire is rated to handle, the wire can heat up, its protective insulation can melt, and the heated wire can start a fire. This overcurrent condition can occur, for example, when a short circuit occurs. Fuses and circuit breakers are used to limit the amount of current that flows through circuit wires. Except for those wires that are intended to carry starting currents, every positive wire in the DC main power distribution system must be protected. The goal of overcurrent protection is to provide protection at the source of power for each circuit. With DC circuits, the overcurrent protection is always placed in the positive side. Circuit protection should be connected as close as possible to the source of power.
Lazy Daze seems to loosely follow the American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards for boat building and repair.
The ABYC recommends that each ungrounded conductor connected to a battery, battery charger, alternator, or other charging source, shall be provided with overcurrent protection within a specified distance of the point of connection to the DC electrical system or to the battery.
I assume that is why Lazy Daze installed two breakers (and now three).
Charles
Excellent treatise. Thanks, Charles.
Chris
[quote author=Charles & Donna date=1610995275 link=msg=227024
Lazy Daze seems to loosely follow the American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards for boat building and repair.
The ABYC recommends that each ungrounded conductor connected to a battery, battery charger, alternator, or other charging source, shall be provided with overcurrent protection within a specified distance of the point of connection to the DC electrical system or to the battery.
[/quote]
LD once belonged to RIVA and uses the Associations specifications. I don’t believe ABYC specs ever entered into the equation.
Steve isn’t a boat guy.
AFAIK, the generator start cable is not fused unless a fusable link has been installed somewhere inline. Fusable links are normally four wire gauge sizes smaller than the main wire.
Not fusing the starter's positive cable is commonly seen in vehicles, the starter’s amperage load is very high and a fuse woud need to be huge to hande the heat.
Our LD only has two circuit breakers on the 12-volt side, the ‘hidden’ and the breaker in the battery box, protecting the connection to the isolator.
Greg’s rig appears to have the ‘hidden’ moved to the battery box.
Larry
LD once belonged to RIVA and uses the Associations specifications. I don’t believe ABYC specs ever entered into the equation.
Steve isn’t a boat guy.
AFAIK, the generator start cable is not fused unless a fusible link has been installed somewhere inline. Fusable links are normally four wire gauge sizes smaller than the main wire.
Not fusing the starter's positive cable is commonly seen in vehicles, the starter’s amperage load is very high and a fuse woud need to be huge to hande the heat.
Larry
Good to know that about fusible links and generator start cables; I've seen them in auto starting systems and alternator wiring (had to replace one long ago but chose to go to a MAXI fuse and holder).
I know about the RIVA, we have a RIVA sticker on our coach. Is Lazy Daze no longer a member? Seems RIVA won't share their specifications with us common folk without a membership and payment. So I went with ABYC specs; I bet ABYC is more stringent than RIVA, just as ASTM aircraft standards are even more involved and strict than ABYC.
Charles
Thanks for the thorough explanation, Charles. I wasn't thinking of the van chassis's separate 12 V system, just the coach 12 V system.
From what I saw when I rewired my midbath, I doubt Lazy Daze has ever heard of ABYC. :-)