As with most things one researches, one inevitably ends up somewhat confused. I just spent about an hour and 1/2 trying to decide what to get. Let it be known that I am suspicious about reviews.
Anyone have substantial experience with these. If so, what say ye?
Depending on what features and capabilities you're looking for, you might want to look at one of the products from either of these two companies:
NOCO - Lithium Jump Starters (https://no.co/products/power/jumpstarters)
MICRO-START Jump-Starter Kits – Antigravity Batteries (https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/micro-starts/)
"Anyone have substantial experience with these."
I have the NOCO GB70. It's got the umpf to start our E450s and I have never had issues with it... if I keep it charged! ::) ;)
I've jump-started my 2003 MB with my Halo Bolt (https://smile.amazon.com/Halo-Portable-Laptop-Charger-Starter/dp/B07DD96B39/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=189CEMORATEW5&dchild=1&keywords=halo+bolt+portable+charger+%26+car+jump+starter&qid=1590009727&sprefix=halo+bol%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNFZTWFJDU1JNRVJJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg1Mzg3MVBaWlk2RTQwN0FWMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzMwODkxVklCOVBQRDRDT0w3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==).
Another thread on jump starters: Lithium Jump Starters (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=34278.msg209652#msg209652)
Portable Jump Starters (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=30288.msg173425#msg173425)
I bought a NOCO GB150 to keep in our rig. A bit of an overkill, but I figure it could be useful to have the extra capacity.
I've used a GB70 before to jump it before.
The nice think about the NOCO's is they have an over ride mode you can use if the battery is so low that the jump back doesn't recognize it.
I have the Micro Start XP3, might be a little light for the V10 though. I like Anti Gravity batterys we used them allot in our snowmobiles, light and powerful.
Jon
I carry the Stanley J5C09 Jumpit. Includes air pump. Used it to start mine twice and about 4 times in campgrounds for others. Handles the V-10 w/o any problems. About $75 on Amazon.com
If you're interested in the NOCO G3500, its on sale at W00T! (https://www.woot.com/category/tools?ref=w_gh_tg_6) today for $34.99 (normally $79.99).
For the large V10 engine, some of the smaller lithium boosters are not adequate to crank the engine over when the starting battery is totally dead.
Long, conventional battery jumper cables are another alternative, using the coach battery to start the engine.
No worries about keeping the booster battery charged.
Larry
If you're interested in the NOCO G3500, its on sale at W00T! (https://www.woot.com/category/tools?ref=w_gh_tg_6) today for $34.99 (normally $79.99).
Just a FYI, that happens to be a charger, not a jump pack.
For the large V10 engine, some of the smaller lithium boosters are not adequate to crank the engine over when the starting battery is totally dead.
Long, conventional battery jumper cables are another alternative, using the coach battery to start the engine.
No worries about keeping the booster battery charged.
Larry
I'd be worried about trying to find long enough ones with large enough gauge.
Just a FYI, that happens to be a charger, not a jump pack.
Thanks for the correction!
I'd be worried about trying to find long enough ones with large enough gauge.
Battery cables are available pre-made in many lengths. For the DIY type, cable and clamps are available at welding stores and online.
100% Copper Jumper (Booster) Cables | Polar Wire (https://store.polarwire.com/jumper-booster-cables/)
Jumper (Booster) Cables - Booster Cable Parts - Polar Wire Products (https://store.polarwire.com/jumper-booster-cables/booster-cable-parts/)
If both the starting and coach batterie's ground cables are in good shape, only a single, positive cable is needed. With cables with large wire (2-gauge or thicker) two single cables can be connected together to accommodate longer distances between the coach and starting battery. Be careful with the exposed clamps, when connected to the batteries.
We also have Antigravity XP-10 Micro-Start, usually carried in the Jeep and a XP-1 Micro-Start for our Subaru.
Make sure to regularly check the charge level.
Larry
In my experience the jump start battery packs are usually used on a towed car, or someone elses car. I carry a 20' #2 copper set of jumper cables. I've used them for other people, jump starting them from their own house batteries. A TrikLstart and solar keeps me from having a dead chassis battery. I don't use the power point, or cigarette lighter socket on my dash. I saw that Xantrex now makes a competitor for the TrikLstart now. ($150 for up to 15 amps).
I have three jump starts. The best is a DBpower 600. I don't carry it in the motorhome. It's to start my Truck, Odyssey, or Tracker. I have used it on the Truck once (let it sit too long with an old battery), and the Odyssey. Left the interior light on.
Mostly I've used them on other peoples cars. Time to dig them out and charge them, and charge the CAT LED lights too. RonB
Trik-L-Start...
Mega TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
I’d not come across this device. It’s a neat idea. I had understood that the once coach batteries are sufficiently charged, the coach power converter diverts current to the chassis battery, effectively accomplishing the same thing as the Trik-L-Start.
Is this perhaps true only on newer coaches?
Or, perhaps during extended stays where the house batteries never reach full charge insufficient current is available to trigger the converter to charge the chassis battery?
Warren
Hi Warren. I wish I had designed and sold the Trik-L-Start. It was such a good aftermarket addition, especially when solar panels became more reasonably priced, that Winnebago puts them in their motorhomes. I noticed that Xantrex has one also, but it doesn't look water tight. Probably intended to be wired in an interior battery compartment. Amazon.com : Xantrex 82-0123-01 Auxiliary Battery Charger, 15A maximum... (https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-82-0123-01-Auxiliary-Automatically-over-current/dp/B003ME6SH0)
They work by measuring the voltage on your house battery. When it is above 13.2 volts, it assumes your batteries are near enough topped out, that it starts applying current to the chassis battery. It doesn't know where the power is from, genset, plugged in, or solar. It drops out when the house batteries go below 13 volts.
But your 2019 from LD includes the Blue Sky Solar Boost 3000i controller with your solar panels, and it has an auxiliary output intended to charge your chassis battery. Good for 2 amps charging. Blue Sky Energy Solar Boost 3000i 30A/22A, @12V Solar charge controller with... (https://4thdsolar.com/products/blue-sky-energy-solar-boost-3000i-30a-22a-12v-solar-charge-controller-with-mppt) So it should be already taken care of for you. You can tell by measuring the chassis battery voltage with a good digital meter. Sitting in sunlight with charged house batteries, the chassis battery will read more than 13 VDC. So it would be receiving some solar charging along with your house batteries to keep it topped off. The engine computer and other phantom loads, Wet Lead Acid batteries self discharge, etc. will drain a battery eventually without some makeup current. This version only works when there is solar, and not with shore power. RonB
Hi Warren. I wish I had designed and sold the Trik-L-Start. It was such a good aftermarket addition, especially when solar panels became more reasonably priced, that Winnebago puts them in their motorhomes. I noticed that Xantrex has one also, but it doesn't look water tight. Probably intended to be wired in an interior battery compartment. Amazon.com : Xantrex 82-0123-01 Auxiliary Battery Charger, 15A maximum... (https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-82-0123-01-Auxiliary-Automatically-over-current/dp/B003ME6SH0)
They work by measuring the voltage on your house battery. When it is above 13.2 volts, it assumes your batteries are near enough topped out, that it starts applying current to the chassis battery. It doesn't know where the power is from, genset, plugged in, or solar. It drops out when the house batteries go below 13 volts.
But your 2019 from LD includes the Blue Sky Solar Boost 3000i controller with your solar panels, and it has an auxiliary output intended to charge your chassis battery. Good for 2 amps charging. Blue Sky Energy Solar Boost 3000i 30A/22A, @12V Solar charge controller with... (https://4thdsolar.com/products/blue-sky-energy-solar-boost-3000i-30a-22a-12v-solar-charge-controller-with-mppt) So it should be already taken care of for you. You can tell by measuring the chassis battery voltage with a good digital meter. Sitting in sunlight with charged house batteries, the chassis battery will read more than 13 VDC. So it would be receiving some solar charging along with your house batteries to keep it topped off. The engine computer and other phantom loads, Wet Lead Acid batteries self discharge, etc. will drain a battery eventually without some makeup current. This version only works when there is solar, and not with shore power. RonB
"This version only works when there is solar, and not with shore power. RonB"Can you explain this further, Ron?Thx, Chris
"This version only works when there is solar, and not with shore power. RonB"
Can you explain this further, Ron?
Thx, Chris
The Blue Sky 3000i controller has an output to charge the starting battery, operational only when the sun is shining.
It will not charge the starting battery when the sun isn't out and the rig is powered by shore power.
Larry
Very helpful! So, when Wapiti is stored and connected to shore power the chassis battery is not charging. This plus the odd occasion when I’m camped with shore power make a good case for either the Trik-L-Start or Xantrex unit.
Very helpful! So, when Wapiti is stored and connected to shore power the chassis battery is not charging. This plus the odd occasion when I’m camped with shore power make a good case for either the Trik-L-Start or Xantrex unit.
The simplest solution is to use a trickle charger when in storage, assuming shore power is available.
A good starting battery should stay charged for a couple of months without needing charging, especially in a warmer climate.
When touring, most drive their rigs often enough to keep the starting battery charged, and even if parked for an extended period, the Blue Sky 3000i will charge all the batteries.
Larry
I just recently installed a Trik-L-Start myself. Pretty easy job.
Any suggestions where in a Mid-Bath One would install a Trik-L-Start or Xantrex equivalent? I’m thinking inside the battery box given proximity to the house and chassis batteries.
Any suggestions where in a Mid-Bath One would install a Trik-L-Start or Xantrex equivalent? I’m thinking inside the battery box given proximity to the house and chassis batteries.
Mount the Trik-L-Start under the hood, at the battery combiner relay. It's a three wire hookup, the kit come with all the needed parts.
Mega TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
Larry
I put mine next to the battery. I'm thinking of moving it though to the other side near the isolator.
Apparently LSL Products makes a couple of models of the device: Amp-L-Start and Trik-L-Start. I contacted the manufacturer to understand the difference. Here is what they said.
“ Although both products accomplish the same basic purpose, the AMP-L-START version has several additional features:
1. Starting and House Battery Connection indicator lights - Warns you if either your house or starting batteries aren't connected to the AMP-L-START (i.e., due to an open battery disconnect switch, poor connection, improper hook-up during installation, etc.).
2. Several User-Selectable Charging Modes - Makes it compatible with Lithium batteries, and temperature-compensated house battery chargers. So, as you mentioned, that might be a consideration if you ever decide to upgrade to Lithium house batteries.
3. Overvoltage Shutdown - Stops supplying current to your starting battery if the house battery voltage becomes excessive (i.e., during a house battery equalization charge, malfunction of your house battery charger, etc.). As soon as the house battery voltage drops back into the acceptable range, charging current to your starting battery resumes automatically.
4. More sophisticated charging scheme - The AMP-L-START uses a microprocessor to precisely control the recharge regimen. Each unit receives its own calibration values, the very first time it is powered up at the factory. Conversely, the TRIK-L-START is an older, all-analog design that has no provisions for factory calibration. This means that the AMP-L-START provides a quicker, more efficient recharge than its 5 amp advantage would otherwise imply.
In short, it's a more modern, feature-rich design - for around 20 bucks more than the TRIK-L-START.
On the other hand, the TRIK-L-START is a tad quicker to install, since it already has the wires pre-attached. Also, unlike the AMP-L-START, it's available with battery clips, for temporary installation.”
I’m still interested in receiving any insights about the Xantrex unit given that company’s reputation for quality. On the other hand, the AMP-L-Start seems like the best of the LSL Products’ offerings (thanks Larry for the off line advice given my needs).
Warren
If you are parked camping with shore power, the solar panels will top off the chassis battery, and the SB3000i will still provide power to the house battery. When camped there should be little drain on the chassis battery. That battery can sit for months and still start the engine, those 'phantom loads are very very small. I know you are 'itching' to put a Trik-L-Start in, but really unnecessary for you. RonB
If you are parked camping with shore power, the solar panels will top off the chassis battery, and the SB3000i will still provide power to the chassis battery. I know you are 'itching' to put a Trik-L-Start in, but really unnecessary for you.
Warren stores his LD inside where there is no solar.
Battery combiners or voltage-sensitive switches are not a new idea, having been used for years on boats.
Battery Combiners | West Marine (https://www.westmarine.com/battery-combiners)
The AMP-L-START is the better unit and the installation is almost as easy, it comes with the electrical fittings and appears to just need a few feet of wire.
The biggest issue is exactly where to mount it, the rest is easy.
Larry
All input considered, I think that for the time being I’ll use a better quality battery tender I have from my days of storing vehicles during one of the other off-season living in the mountains of Wyoming. The only down side I can imagine is the slight risk of the tender shorting out and causing a fire (unlikely).
Thanks all for the education and input.
Warren
I ran a wire from my Blue Sky 3000i solar charge controller out through the house battery box. I have to route the wire outside the RV to the truck starting battery less ideal than if they had built the wire in when making the RV. As far as I know there is no such wire in my 2003 RB, for which the Blue sky is a replacement for a previous solar charge Controller. No ground conductor wire needed. House and truck batteries are both chassis grounded.
I put a trick-l-start on my Bigfoot motorhome. It keeps the truck batteries charged from the house batteries regardless of what is charging the house batteries.
"Anyone have substantial experience with these."
I have the NOCO GB70. It's got the umpf to start our E450s and I have never had issues with it... if I keep it charged! ::) ;)
I am thinking of getting this. 7 months since your post, are you still satisfied. Mine is a Chevy small block. Is it adequate?
"7 months since your post, are you still satisfied."
You betcha! Had to use it a couple of times and it starts at first crank. If it starts mine there's no doubt it will do the same for you. ;)