I just recently purchased a 2005 26.5 mid bathroom LD’s. I’d like to winterize the water lines, when our winter temps get into the teens. The seller furnished no manuals or service records. So, i’ll Admit I hear the pump but haven’t been able to find it. Any help would be appreciated. Blessings Macmarty
Hi Macmarty. We have a 2011 mid-bath and I will tell you the location of our water pump. It may, or may not, be in the same location for your LD. Look under the cabinet of the kitchen sink to a plastic ? piece that is abutted to the floor. This piece is just velcroed in place. Remove this piece and you may find the water pump and lots of wires. Good luck with winterizing your LD.
BTW, you can try calling the LD factory to see if they have any LD manuals for your year.
The Lazy Daze Companion: Winterize (https://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/search/label/Winterize)
Joan,
Thank you, the article you submitted on winterizing the LD days was great. I've used both the blow out and RV antifreeze method on other RV's I’ve owned. And the select pointers about leaving your fresh water drain partial open were great. I’m still attempting to locate the water pump access on my 2005 26.5 mid bathroom LD.
Thank you again for you for the article and safe travels. Blessings Macmarty
"I'm still attempting to locate the water pump access on my 2005 26.5 mid bathroom LD."
On Lazy Daze Mid-bath floor plans, the water pump is in a panel below the cupboard which is beneath the kitchen sink. The electrical center is near the floor beneath the countertop extension. Next to the electric panel is a section of wood grain paneling with a plastic edge; that panel is held in place with velcro. Pull it away from the cabinet and you should see the water pump mounted to the floor.
If it is not there, a previous owner may have relocated it beneath the bathroom sink cabinet. I have read that some owners have moved it there for easier access.
You should be able to verify its location by listening for it when you turn it on. None of them are really silent.
I prefer to not mess around with removing the water pump strainer. I am FAR more confident using the pink RV antifreeze in my winter climate.
Good luck,
Steve K
"I prefer to not mess around with removing the water pump strainer. I am FAR more confident using the pink RV antifreeze in my winter climate."
How you winterize is sort of like "You like tomato and I like tomahto." Both work. I've used compressed air for 17 years and never had a problem. If you don't want to invest in a compressor, then RV antifreeze is a good bet.
Chris
While we're on the subject.... I have hooked up my LD supplied connecter to the waterline south of my pump (MB) and found the connection is not air tight. It leaks. I can fabricate a washer similar to a what is used on a water hose to make a seal, but that is a pain. What am I missing here? Frank
Thanks for all the help, I located the water pump.
Macmarty
Frank,
What style is the connection and are you using plumbers tape or not? Pictures can help us see what connection you are referring to and the type of your pipe.
Compression fittings - do not use plumbers tape.
Threaded fittings - use plumbers tape. Ask 5 experienced plumbers and you will get different answers for the number of times to put the tape around the pipe. I have heard answers from 1 to 3 or 4 from most long time plumbers. It depends a little on type of pipe and the specific situation - but in general I do 2-3 depending on the situation, 2 often is a good place to start. You can try a little more or a little less if you leak - you don't want to bury the threads (the shape of the threads should come thru the threads), but you don't want it so thin that it doesn't fill the space well (I have rarely used only 1 time around the pipe and only in situations when I had a very tight fit).
Jane
Hey Chris,
"I've used compressed air for 17 years and never had a problem. If you don't want to invest in a compressor, then RV antifreeze is a good bet."
Correct me if I am wrong my good friend, but aren't you they guy who ended up with a cracked toilet? O:)
I realize installing a water heater bypass (recommended when using RV antifreeze) in Lazy Dazes is a pain in the posterior. But from reading nearly every post on the LD message boards, the folks who have had damaged plumbing, be it toilet water valves, faucets, water pumps etc., winterized using a blow out method. Maybe they didn't do a thorough enough job? Who knows? I don't think I have heard of anyone who used RV antifreeze have damaged fixtures.
Steve K (I hate plumbing repairs!!)
"Correct me if I am wrong my good friend, but aren't you they guy who ended up with a cracked toilet?"
Yep, but not from blow-out winterizing because there was never any water in the bowl to freeze, just anti-freeze to protect the seal. It was defective from the outset with an invisible hairline crack which over time began to grow, but it didn't leak so I ignored it when I first saw it. Three weeks before the 10 year Dometic warranty was due to expire, I decided to look at the warranty and called Dometic when I saw the expiration date. The rep requested a photo of the crack and they honored the warranty and sent me a new bowl.
Chris
I usually follow the manual for blowing out the lines, using the factory adaptor. But because I do not have the most level place to work or store the rv I pump some antifreeze (a gal or so) through the filter and pump. Then run the filter canister and pump dry. This step has the additional advantage of exposing a leak if I didn’t tighten the line to the pump enough after doing the blow out. The idea is to make the nest get away easier. We sometimes take a trip south in mid winter and do not use the freshwater system until we are safe from very cold temps. (Think flushing with antifreeze and drinking from bottled water).
"Then run the filter canister and pump dry."
John, i just blew my lines an hour ago and also ran the pump with a cloth under the spout to pick up last vestiges of water. I noticed today that the filter housing still is about half full despite my efforts. I've done nothing different this 19th time and I've never had a problem in the spring, assuming the filter housing was always left with water in it. I just happened to have direct sunlight on the assembly and noticed it today. Any thoughts? I should probably take the housing apart and drain it.
Chris
I have never had any luck taking the housing apart. I remove it and just shake out the water. One year I had a hair line crack in the filter housing. I don’t know if it was caused by me trying to take it apart or not draining it. So now I don’t mess with plastic that can brake and just fill it with antifreeze to get any water out, then get the sucker as empty as possible on the off chance I have a bad batch of antifreeze. It sound more difficult than it is. My o7 has the compression fittings and this is real easy to do while I’m lying on the floor.
Sorry for the late reply. Watching the Nationals. Hopefully they can sneer away with the series from what is on paper the better team.
I take apart all the connections and water pump filter. I'm a bit surprised at the 'stuff' that gets pass my 'outside' water filter program. <smile> makes me wonder why I put all the money is that 'high' class water purification. I do dump all the water including the water heater. I leave the water values and plug open in the main water tank and hot water heater. As luck would have it I had to move the LD after this winterized process. I found there was still water in the tanks as it come out during the move. I think I'll add moving the LD after winterizing to my process.
BTW I'm a great believer in using a Water Leak Detector (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIBD4EY/ref=psdc_7491105011_t3_B00433OTHU).
glen
"Then run the filter canister and pump dry."
John, i just blew my lines an hour ago and also ran the pump with a cloth under the spout to pick up last vestiges of water. I noticed today that the filter housing still is about half full despite my efforts. I've done nothing different this 19th time and I've never had a problem in the spring, assuming the filter housing was always left with water in it. I just happened to have direct sunlight on the assembly and noticed it today. Any thoughts? I should probably take the housing apart and drain it.
Chris
Why the resistance to pink stuff? Blowing out is like driving drunk, you can get away with it a hundred times but eventually things will go bad. The only sure fire way to not get a DUI is dont drive drunk and the only sure fire way not to have a freeze issue is pink stuff.
Why the resistance to pink stuff? Blowing out is like driving drunk, you can get away with it a hundred times but eventually things will go bad. The only sure fire way to not get a DUI is dont drive drunk and the only sure fire way not to have a freeze issue is pink stuff.
Cost......
IMHO if you are going to use the 'pink' stuff it would be cheaper to use a gallon of generic wine.
1. it probably has a higher alcohol content.
2. can drink what you don't use
3. use it for cooking
glen
Cost......
IMHO if you are going to use the 'pink' stuff it would be cheaper to use a gallon of generic wine.
1. it probably has a higher alcohol content.
2. can drink what you don't use
3. use it for cooking
glen
Cost is a legitimate concern for pink stuff but if you install a hot water heater bypass valve you only need two gallons tops to winterize which is eight bucks. Cheap peace of mind IMO. Nothing like a good nights sleep on those sub zero nights with no time spent laying awake staring into the darkness wondering if you blew out every drop of water.
You may have a good point on gallon jug wine though. LOL
The more i think about it i wonder if its not a viable alternative
Edit: Dont think it would work.
"Let’s Talk About Storing Alcohol in the Freezer
You can use the freezer to chill bottles of alcohol quickly, but for unopened bottles of wine and beer, be careful: if they freeze, unopened wine and beer bottles may burst from a combination of pressure and expansion of the liquid as it freezes, so limit their time in the freezer. "
The Freezing Points of Wine, Beer & Liquor | Kitchn (https://www.thekitchn.com/why-doesnt-alcohol-freeze-weve-got-chemistry-217962)
Why the resistance to pink stuff? Blowing out is like driving drunk, you can get away with it a hundred times but eventually things will go bad. The only sure fire way to not get a DUI is dont drive drunk and the only sure fire way not to have a freeze issue is pink stuff.
It's my choice, thank you,
It's my choice, thank you,
No offense meant. Just wondering what your reasons were. Some people think it makes the water taste bad after you get it in your pipes. Maybe they have more sensitive taste buds than I do. Others say its the cost of pink stuff. Friend of mine says the smell makes him nauseous. Some just think blowing is easier.
I am once again a strict adherent to Murphys law which at times like this stands in stark juxtaposition to my other strict adherence to the KISS principle in which case Murphy trumps KISS.
For what’s worth, we use compressed air to winterize. If we have a brief warm spell, we easily and quickly take off. Then we’ll winterize again. During one winter we winterized 3 times. When Margee helps, we’re done rather quickly. A larger compressor significantly speeds up the operation. That’s our story.
For what’s worth, we use compressed air to winterize. If we have a brief warm spell, we easily and quickly take off. Then we’ll winterize again. During one winter we winterized 3 times. When Margee helps, we’re done rather quickly. A larger compressor significantly speeds up the operation. That’s our story.
Good point. If you are doing brief intermittent winterizing i can definitely see the draw to blowing.
Another thing comes to mind which would be the hassle of installing a bypass kit which for some reason doesn't come standard on the LD.
No offense meant. Just wondering what your reasons were. Some people think it makes the water taste bad after you get it in your pipes. Maybe they have more sensitive taste buds than I do. Others say its the cost of pink stuff. Friend of mine says the smell makes him nauseous. Some just think blowing is easier.
Chris lives at altitude in Colorado where the winters can be very cold.
If blowing the lines out with compressed air has worked for 17 years to clear the water lines successfully, I tend to think that he has found a good way to winterize without the pink stuff. Without antifreeze, there is little to do to reactivate the fresh water system other than filling with fresh water, no need to flush the pink out of the system.
Obviously, there is more than one good way to winterize, pick the methods that works for you.
Larry
Chris lives at altitude in Colorado where the winters can be very cold.
Obviously, there is more than one good way to winterize, pick the methods that works for you.
Larry
Couldn't agree more. My query was only meant to further the conversation for those in the process of making a decision in which course to choose. IMO blowing is playing with fire but you know what they say about opinions. I won't repeat it here. LOL
Didn't mean to step on any toes or bruise any egos.
My class B had bypass valves for the hot water tank but one failed somehow and wouldn't cut off water to the tank. I didn't much care and never replaced the bad valve because there were additional valves at the low point of the plumbing, With those opened water exited to the ground. Worked great. I didn't even need to use compressed air.
Now that we have a TK I'm deciding between compressed air and antifreeze myself. Initially I thought I would add a bypass but as I looked at the limited space i would be working in it just seemed like a lot of trouble even though I've done a lot of plumbing in very shallow crawl spaces over the years. My less than ideal experience with the class B bypass is probably influencing me as well. Though I suppose a bypass failure is pretty rare.
Probably the main driving force for me to use compressed air is that I live in the Oregon Willamette valley and we love our winter trips to the Oregon coast. I too want to be able to quickly dewinterize for quick get aways for the winter.
Just curious, has anyone experienced burst pipes with LD's outfitted with PEX? My '92 class B had the gray plastic plumbing but my 2003 TK has PEX. PEX stretches right?
.
Probably the main driving force for me to use compressed air is that I live in the Oregon Willamette valley and we love our winter trips to the Oregon coast. I too want to be able to quickly dewinterize for quick get aways for the winter.
Just curious, has anyone experienced burst pipes with LD's outfitted with PEX? My '92 class B had the gray plastic plumbing but my 2003 TK has PEX. PEX stretches right?
Interesting about pex not freezing or breaking when frozen I should say. News to me and after doing some research on it apparently it is at minimum highly break resistant if not 100% break proof. I wish i had known that when i built my house. I considered it at the time but was hearing scary stories about connection failure as time went by. Maybe it was myth or maybe that's now been solved but in retrospect i wish i used it.
Pertaining to your case i think I'd feel very comfortable blowing it out and possibly thats not even necessary from what I'm reading but it couldn't hurt to be a little extra safe.
Couldn't agree more. My query was only meant to further the conversation for those in the process of making a decision in
Didn't mean to step on any toes or bruise any egos.
Trust me my ego is not bruised or my toes feel stepped on. I never take anything person on the internets....... I've learned many many years ago the ONLY voice you hear on the internet is your own unless you know the other personally.
On putting wine or beer in RV lines for winterizing ..... the issue is simple. At or near freezing water/ice expands. If the water/ice has a place to go then there is no harm. A proper blowing out of lines will work.
glen
Trust me my ego is not bruised or my toes feel stepped on. I never take anything person on the internets....... I've learned many many years ago the ONLY voice you hear on the internet is your own unless you know the other personally.
On putting wine or beer in RV lines for winterizing ..... the issue is simple. At or near freezing water/ice expands. If the water/ice has a place to go then there is no harm. A proper blowing out of lines will work.
glen
Your ego or toes were never in question. That was a comment on a post where someone got very defensive about a questioning post of mine.
On ice having a place to go i would take issue based on my accidental real world observation of leaving a glass or jar outside with water in it in winter. When the water freezes the container breaks even though the ice has plenty of room to expand up. Why would this be any different in blown out pipes where a small amount of water may gather in a low spot? Maybe there is some reason I'm missing here?
After the housing bubble burst and all the foreclosures we looked at a lot of homes for sale as a rental investment and according to realtors their was some government regulation that the plumbing had to be winterized with pink stuff not just blown out so all the houses we looked at had pink in sinks and toilets. Government does tend to over regulate with no regard for cost differential but it did make me think maybe there was a valid reason for pink stuff over blowing.
On second thought it may be that pink stuff is idiot proof and if every sink and toilet runs pink you are 100% assured it's winterized and there is visual evidence of compliance with regulations.
Maybe that's why I personally prefer the pink stuff method. It's idiot proof and if every faucet runs pink theres no question in my mind and I sleep better on those sub zero nights.
Am I copping to being an idiot here? I'll let others decide that.LOL
Methinks we (myself included) have covered the pros and cons of anti-freeze vs compressed air most thoroughly. Perhaps it's time to shut this topic down.
Chris
A seasonal reminder for those of us who winterize using the pink stuff.
Complete instructions: The Lazy Daze Companion: Winterize (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/search/label/Winterize)
(1) Don't forget the city water inlet! You need to see pink stuff dripping out or the job isn't finished.
(2) And don't forget to turn off the water pump and relieve the system pressure before pressing the white stem in the city water inlet!
(3) Instructions to fix the city water inlet o-ring if you forget #2:
The Lazy Daze Companion: Repairing City Water Connection (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/2011/01/repairing-city-water-connection.html)
We're scheduled for a hard(ish) freeze next week in NC. I almost forgot the city water inlet....
Rich