Hey all,
I'm looking to replace the kitchen faucet in my 01 MB. The DW has requested a high-arc single lever faucet. In looking online, it seems all of those are 1 hole compatible, which would mean I'd have to cut a center whole and redo the plumbing to be able to mount them.
Does anyone know of a high-arc, single lever, two hole faucet? Ideally looking for one I can just drop straight in and not have to have monkey w/ the plumbing.
Thanks in advance
Sean
Never removed ours, but do believe there is a center hole already in yours. Our '04 has a pull-out faucet, and that requires a center hole, and that is the only one. Most single-hole faucets come with an escutcheon to cover the other holes - check for included accessories for any faucet you plan to buy. See Larry's sink install in his '03:
Faucets | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157625826674170/)
Steve
I pulled the old one out already. There isn't any center hole. The plumbing is also straight run of pex going straight under the two holes. No way to connect to the flex lines of a center hole faucet.
I attached some pictures from under the sink showing what I've got to deal with. I don't have any PEX experience nor tools, so that's why I'm hoping for a drop in replacement.
I imagine I could cut back the feed lines and attach a straight coupler instead of the 90 degree that are currently there.
I don't know of a single-lever faucet for a two-hole sink deck, but you might find something on this site:
https://www.faucet.com/
Here's what I installed in my 30'IB...
Amazon.com: Dura Faucet Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet for RV’s, Motorhomes,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYIBFYG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Builders Shoppe 1920SS 10" Kitchen Sink Faucet Deck Plate Stainless Steel... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MU4F3TM/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I have to say I am very disappointed in how LD installed their pex.
The beauty of pex is:
It bends - there are restrictions, Check manufacturer specs but the one I did a lot of work with was about 6" diameter circle for 1/2" pex.
This means you do not need to use fittings to turn corners. Just like electricity - every break in the line is a potential failure spot. So all those fittings LD put in are potential leak spots. With pex fittings also typically each fitting changes psi. There are places fittings are needed (tee - where one line comes in and splits to two lines out). But corners just get turned. The lines are properly supported before and after turns and the same for fittings.
Also since bends are common when pex is installed it allows a little extra give to the lines to flex with movement. Not so with all those very short runs going between fittings. There is no give - as you drive down the road all the connection spots are jostled.
Standard practice is to bring the pex to a location close to the plumbing fixture (sink in this case) and put in shutoff valves and run flex lines to the shutoff valves.
LD did what I have seen plumbers that really don't understand pex do - pretend it is copper pipe / more rigid pipe and install it like you would copper pipe (giving up all the advantages of pex). It makes me wonder if they calculated their lines correctly - pex has different internal diameters (ID) which is used to calculate PSI among other things and the plumbers I knew who treated pex like copper also did their calculations using copper specs (not pex specs),even when they knew they were doing it wrong.
That being said - this is an RV. It a house. And I bet no pex manufacturer would back the warrentee when the pex is used in an RV. Too much unknown for them. And if installed correctly perhaps it is as least as robust as the old grey plastic pipe. I just would have installed it as pex was meant to be installed.
I see no way to change to a different style faucet without cutting the pex and adding an adapter to connect the flex lines. But support is needed at that new fitting (can't be hanging out in the air). And there are manufacture specs for minimum space between fitting. Practice untill you are good with the fitting took (looks like crimp one but best to use fitting that go with that brand pex). Give your self room if you mess up you can cut off the fitting and still have room to add a different one.
Feel free to PM me with questions.
I strongly suggest everyone add to their regular maintenance to check all their pex fittings / attachment points and support pieces to make sure there's no leaks and everything is fully supported.
Maybe even after each long trip.
Jane
The PEX water lines under the sink in my 2003 are connected very much the same as in the OP's photo, but the runs appear to be shorter; it may be that in the very limited space under the sink (one discovers just how limited and difficult to access this space is when changing out a sink faucet, and I know someone who can attest to this!), LD decided that connecting straight runs of PEX with fasteners would be neater and and less in the way with the short runs of piping than a 'loop and droop' configuration?
PEX Information (http://www.pexinfo.com/)
I imagine I could cut back the feed lines and attach a straight coupler instead of the 90 degree that are currently there.
I have used the right-angle version of these as sink stops at home:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-O-D-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Straight-Stop-Valve-23037-0000LF/202270613
But these in-line valves might work better for you. Honestly, I haven't used them in the RV, but at home they have been leak-free, and very easy to install on PEX or copper. I would recommend you secure the pex lines and sink supply hoses to the deck underside with about 1/4" wood shims to avoid stresses on the valve connections.
Steve
Joan - while you can put in loops - right angle supports look like the picture attached. Fastened tightly to the wall and for this model the pex just snaps in the support. Not a strict 90 degrees - there is a little more of the bend coming into and going out of the support. A support is not required it just forces a tight corner.
The bend (with or without support) would go for example in the upper right corner of the cabinet seen - eliminating the right angle fitting there.
I would have lowered the horizontal lines and had the upper line’s tee pointed up and added a shut off valve there, secured against that back wall. And had the tee on the lower horizontal line pointed downward. Then add flex lines and secure them against that back wall and to the top so they are neatly out of the way.
Two sets of fittings they used not needed, you have shutoff valves, and easy to change your faucet style.
I also would have put insulation around the pipes - to protect them from running against things that would scrape way the pipe,including their zip ties.
Does anyone know the brand of pex LD used? The writing on the picture is cut off at the beginning so it does’t show.
It looks like Upanor - it has a little translucent quality to it like Upanor brand does. Upanor has more flexibility and less rigidness than some other brands I have seen (like the ones at Home Depot). Upanor fittings are attached with an expansion tool - not crimping tools but some skill is needed for their tool.
Shark it’s (and similiar brands) I thought were a great idea when they first came out. However I used one temporarily on an older copper pipe - a cap at the end of a line cut so remodeling could be done, and it leaked. A slow drip that didn’t show up for a day or so. Old 1/2” pipe has a slightly different diameter than new 1/2” copper was ‘t perfect. So if you are going to try one, I suggest getting one made for your pipe (eg made for pex if you are putting it on a pex pipe) and keeping a close eye on it. Because they are made for sticks and bricks homes and made to grab tight the pipe (vs other more secure attachment styles) I personally would not use them.
Jane
Sean-
The plumbing is set up for an old-fashioned "eight-inch centerset" faucet. Your choices for drop-in replacements is limited. You would have to give up either the single-lever or the high-arch spout to get a drop-in that works. One or the other, but not both.
My favorite Web site for faucets is faucetdirect.com (http://www.faucetdirect.com). Use their filters for faucet centers, number of handles, etc., to browse their faucets. There are some handsome (and expensive) high-arch two-level (hot and cold) eight-inch centerset commercial faucets available there, and some less-expensive single-lever, low-arch eight-inch centerset faucets.
As far as modifications go without having to have a PEX tool: You can rotate those PEX elbows with swivels to face downward just by twisting, then attach the flexible hoses on a single-lever faucet to them (in that position). Me, I would think twice about drilling the larger hole through the sink and countertop for the body of the single-lever control. Not that the drilling would be hard to do, but it would be a one-shot deal- better get it correct!
Mark H
Mark said “As far as modifications go without having to have a PEX tool: You can rotate those PEX elbows with swivels to face downward just by twisting, then attach the flexible hoses on a single-lever faucet to them (in that position). ”
If the fitting itself swivels easily (made to swivel) you could turn it - the ones I have seen have not been made to swivel.
However if you force the connection turning where the pex is connected to the fitting (the crimped on band), you are damaging the connection that is made to be water tight to prevent leaks. The band is not made to be loosened and retightened and they are installed very tight. If you can twist that it’s is possible the connection has already been compromised and if you force a swival here you are compromising the connection spot.
Thanks for all the comments. I did notice that sink itself already has the center hole, it's just filled w/ some sealant. I'd just have to drill the plywood, which isn't a big deal. I browsed around the faucet.com site yesterday, I'll look at the faucetdirect site today. I'll also try to see if the 90 fittings rotate easily or not. There is a lot of PEX under the sink, so I'll also see if I can find a run long enough to see the manufacturers markings.
Sean, note the Sharkbite fittings just press on the cut end of PEX tubing, no crimping needed Once installed, they rotate as needed. The fittings I indicated already accept a standard faucet supply hose. The only tool you need is a tubing cutter. Check the Sharkbite Youtube videos for installation instructions.
Steve
Henness, I enjoy watching "Ask This Old House". I have seen them replace a two hole faucet with a single center hole one. They covered the old holes with a trim plate made for that. The finished look is clean. So, that might work for you. You would need to check the clearance from the sink to the trim plate to make sure the plate will sit flat.
Ken F in NM
Here’s what we went with. I believe it’s a Moen.
Drilled out the middle hole to install, got the proper flexible connections so no adjustments to the pex were required. Overal we are happy, it reaches into the larger sink easier and the pull out function comes in handy quite often.
Here’s what we went with. I believe it’s a Moen.
Drilled out the middle hole to install, got the proper flexible connections so no adjustments to the pex were required. Overal we are happy, it reaches into the larger sink easier and the pull out function comes in handy quite often.
Very nice! This is a good thread to save - full of good info and suggestions. Would you mind posting the model # of your Moen faucet?
Chris
Moen is not the only game in town!
Amazon.com: Dura Faucet (https://www.amazon.com/stores/node/3027066011?_encoding=UTF8&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Dura%20Faucet&ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3027066011)
Moen does have excellent customer service and a lifetime guarantee.
I looked at “RV” specific stuff and it was all extremely cheap. The residential stuff always seems more quality.
A guy can buy what ever he wants but a Moen is a hard faucet to beat.
Considering how many times you touch the sink faucet during a trip out it pays dividends to spend the extra and get equipment that feels good in the hand.
Also residential equipment with proper weight and quality really sets a rig apart from even the nicest newest units. Go tour a 80k fifth wheel and feel the faucets and you will likely be disappointed.
We got lucky and the previous owners installed a porcelain toilet in our LD. That’s another upgrade I highly recommend.
"...the previous owners installed a porcelain toilet in our LD."
??? My 2004 came with a porcelain toilet from LD! ??? ::)
I thought that was a standard feature my 1994 mid bath has a porcelain toilet.
Jody
Maybe ours had a porcelain toilet...the current toilet is certainly aftermarket as we no longer have the toilet sprayer.
"...the previous owners installed a porcelain toilet in our LD."
??? My 2004 came with a porcelain toilet from LD! ??? ::)
Our 1983 LD had a plastic toilet and the 2003 came with a porcelain toilet.
The first thing we noticed in the 2003 was how much more water was required to flush and clean the porcelain bowl, a complaint I let Steve know about .
The new, porcelain toilet required an upgraded water pump with greater output and pressure, the previously used Whisper King pumps were not up to the job anymore, requiring the upsized 5.7-GPM variable speed pump to be used.
If given the choice, we would prefer to have the older-style plastic toilet, it wasn't any harder to clean, the lower water usage was a big plus and it weighed considerably less than the porcelain replacement. What's not to like? YMMV
Larry
Decided to replace our pull-out oem kitchen faucet in our '04 FL, which without pulling out had difficulty even reaching the larger sink we use the most. This meant one-handed cleaning - a pain. I had modified with a faucet extension, workable but not ideal. The new faucet is a pull-down, and the stream/spray switch stays where you put it. It's a Kohler Malleco.
Steve, I'm glad you specified that the Kohler Malleco was the pull down version rather than the 'touchless' type; I can just see the faucet shooting a stream of water every time anything moved in the near vicinity! ;)
Joan, this one was through Costco for a good price, but the one in stock at our Costco was the touchless model - so I had to order online. The other would be fun for counter-roving cats, though! The other model in-stock at the store was the Hansgrohe I also considered. It was taller but slightly less reach, however the 'switch' is a 3-way with flow pause - probably a nice feature for this application. Reach was a priority, though.
Steve
Finished the new install tonight. I ended up using SharkBite connectors on the PEX. Pictures attached of the new plumbing underneath.
Thanks, Sean, this will help me a lot.
I also have - since a year - a 2001 Mid-Bath and wanted from the beginning to get a new kitchen faucet. However, when I looked underneath the kitchen sink and saw the two pex lines going through the wood to the left and right side of the faucet I got scared away from this project. Your information and your pictures will make me to order a faucet very soon and then get to it!
Where and what did you buy in the end?
Did you manage to work underneath there without damaging your back or your neck?
Klaus
It was very tight under there.
Here's picture from the top. We got a pearless from Lowe's. Because of the layout, we wanted one that we could put the faucet in the left most hole so we could more easily get water in the left hand sink. The wife and daughter liked this one the most. It has the pull out, but we are not putting the weight on the line. Too much movement in an RV.
It has the pull out, but we are not putting the weight on the line.
Nice looking installation. You may want to put the weight on the line to keep the nozzle seated. If you don't need it to pull out far, the weight could be just a short distance down. Another option might be a clamp around the hose and an appropriate spring from the clamp to an attachment below.
Our installation I showed earlier I had an issue with the weight bumping the drain plumbing. I ended up looping the hose from an attachment on the back wall up to the faucet such that there is no interfence. The weight is hanging free at the lowest point of the loop. That allows about a 6" pullout - more than enough - and the nozzle snaps back when released.
Steve
Nice looking installation. You may want to put the weight on the line to keep the nozzle seated. If you don't need it to pull out far, the weight could be just a short distance down. Another option might be a clamp around the hose and an appropriate spring from the clamp to an attachment below.
Without the weight, the nozzle will droop instead of being pulled tight into the faucet's arm, when not in use..
We dumped the Factory faucet, with the hose and weight, after having to frequently untangle the weight, the hose drops into the cooking gear storage. where there are plenty of things for it to hang up on.
Larry
Thanks for the info Steve, I'll definitely keep those tips in mind. We're taking a trip down to FL real soon now, so we'll see how it works as is. The nozzle does seem to "snap" into the faucet a bit, so we are hoping that is going to be enough. I don't think we'll be needing to pull it out much. It's high enough now to get into some bigger pots, and with it being mounted in the left hole, it reaches to the left big sink bowl much better now.
The new faucet is a pull-down, and the stream/spray switch stays where you put it. It's a Kohler Malleco.
Remounted for more convenient operation:
Here's what I installed in my 30'IB...
Amazon.com: Dura Faucet Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet for RV’s, Motorhomes,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYIBFYG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Builders Shoppe 1920SS 10" Kitchen Sink Faucet Deck Plate Stainless Steel... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MU4F3TM/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Any issues with the fit? I’ve got the same Dura Faucet pull-down kitchen faucet in Amazon cart, ready to buy, so I assume it’s totally compatible replacement in my 2006 front lounge as well?
Just off with the old, attach the new—doable with my entry-level skill set, I hope! 😉
Thanks,
Daryl
"Any issues with the fit? "
Daryl
None whatsoever! Total drop in, tighten down.
One caveat... during install you can orient the faucet handle in any direction, right, left or center. I prefer it on the left due to limited clearance on the right where it was initially placed. ;)
Cool... thanks, Steve!!
I think I’ll give it a whirl 😁
Daryl
Cool... thanks, Steve!!
I think I’ll give it a whirl 😁
Daryl
Hey, Daryl. If you install one, how about taking some step-by-step install photos and posting them for us mechanically disadvantaged folks. My faucet is long in the tooth and ay need replacing soon.
Chris
The original faucet in my 2003 was a three-hole set-up, and I think it's the same in a 2006. If the replacement faucet uses a single hole, a faceplate is necessary unless the replacement faucet has its own "faceplate", i.e., a base which covers the other two holes in the sink deck.
Good luck!
The original faucet in my 2003 was a three-hole set-up, and I think it's the same in a 2006. If the replacement faucet uses a single hole, a faceplate is necessary unless the replacement faucet has its own "faceplate", i.e., a base which covers the other two holes in the sink deck.
Good luck!
The description on Amazon says it comes with the “optional” baseplate to cover holes, so hoping will have everything I’ll need when it arrives tomorrow!
Hey, Daryl. If you install one, how about taking some step-by-step install photos and posting them for us mechanically disadvantaged folks. My faucet is long in the tooth and ay need replacing soon.
Chris
Will do, Chris! My original faucet is also long in the tooth and doesn’t swivel anymore; it seems permanently stuck over the bigger sink, which works fine, but afraid to tug at it too much and risk breaking the old thing!
Daryl
Got it successfully installed yesterday!
The only issue is that it’s such a tight fit under the sink to reach the connectors, yikes! Well at least on the 24’ front lounge , I BARELY was able to squeeze in enough down there to get to it. I hope I never have to replace it again!
But other than that, it was a simple screw off the old and screw on the new water lines— plug and play, but , damn, it was a pain contortioning myself to do it 😱
Daryl
Got it successfully installed yesterday!
The only issue is that it’s such a tight fit under the sink to reach the connectors, yikes! Well at least on the 24’ front lounge , I BARELY was able to squeeze in enough down there to get to it. I hope I never have to replace it again!
But other than that, it was a simple screw off the old and screw on the new water lines— plug and play, but , damn, it was a pain contortioning myself to do it 😱
Daryl
Perfect, Daryl. Thanks for posting. I assume that is the Laguna deck plate that was ordered extra and did not come with the faucet.
Chris
Perfect, Daryl. Thanks for posting. I assume that is the Laguna deck plate that was ordered extra and did not come with the faucet.
Chris
Hey Chris,
This Dura Faucet (ordered from amazon) came with the matching baseplate so didn’t need to get any additional parts!
Daryl
We hesitate to post about our new galley faucet, it’s awesome but also way more money than most people would consider (~$600.00). However, if you use your galley a lot and you’re not on a tight budget, you might want to consider the splurge. The faucet is a Brizo single handle articulating kitchen faucet (here’s a link to one of the many available models: https://www.brizo.com/kitchen/product/63221LF-SS).
We installed the model above in our kitchen a year ago and then one in Sidra a couple months ago. We love just about everything about it. The single lever handle controls flow and temperature better than any faucet we’ve ever used. The two-mode faucet head offers an aerated stream that is just what you expect and a shower setting that shines, making best use of water at very low flow rates. The faucet head magnetically docks to an articulating arm and connects to a 23" above-deck flexible hose that easily reaches any part of the sink. The double articulating arm and swivel base allow the faucet head to be positioned over any region of either sink tub. The only thing that isn’t perfect are the rather stiff articulating joints, which cannot be adjusted. (This Note appears in the spec sheet: Exterior arm screws are decorative and will NOT need to be tightened during the lifetime of the faucet. Turning or removing screws may hinder arm functionality and will void the faucet warranty.)
A delightful surprise was that it was easy to install in Sidra. We got lucky that our leaky, factory-original galley faucet was installed without any caulk! It lifted right out. We reused the single-hole top plate escutcheon. The faucet mounted solidly to the counter/sink/escutcheon with the Brizo supplied hardware. The existing plumbing did not require any modification. Only a 3/8" compression to ½" MIP adapter was needed to attach each hose to the hot and cold supply lines (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Compression-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-2-Pack-800769/207176557#overlay). We dressed the hoses to prevent them from encroaching on the storage space under the sink where we keep pots and pans.
Cheers,
Jim & Sue
Sweet!
My first ‘real’ job out of high school was a kitchen helper a local hospital, starting out washing pots and pans.
Like your Brizo, the hospital’s faucet's high, flexible hose, along with a dock, was easy to use, it made the tedious process more tolerable. IMO, the flexible hose is superior to the pull-out hose variety of kitchen sinks.
If you plan on keeping your rig for a long time, pricey upgrades pay off when they make your day to day living more pleasurable or comfortable. Nice upgrade.
Larry
The flexible hose reminds me of the faucets used in commercial kitchens, the magnetic dock is a plus.
If you plan on keeping your rig for a long time, pricey upgrades pay off when they make your day-to-day living more pleasurable or comfortable.
Nice upgrade.
Larry