I have noticed that the water flow is slower on the hot water side than the cold in the shower. It works OK. Kitchen and bathroom faucets seem to flow the same. Any ideas on what could cause that?
Jim
You did check the shower hose and head for any obstructions?
You did check the shower hose and head for any obstructions?
I did.
Jim,
Have you taken the hot water valve apart? Either a restriction of some sort, or turning the knob is not fully raising the plug off the seat?
Bill
2003 23' FL
It is possible too that where the hot water line attaches to the shower valve there is a plugged screen filter.
Steve
To Bill and Steve. I haven't tried to take the valve apart and it really doesn't look as though it can be taken apart. There are no screens on either the cold or hot side.
I say that because about a year ago one side of the outside shower faucet failed and water started pouring out. I ended up removing the entire assembly and capping off the lines. All of it appeared to be cheap plastic and it didn't appear that it could be taken apart although I could certainly be wrong.
The one thing that I could do is unscrew the hot water line from the back side of the connection to see if there is some debris but since it's output is acceptable I'm reluctant to do that for fear of creating a leak after putting back together.
Given my experience with the failure of the outside shower controls I really must buy a replacement to have on hand should this one fail the same way. In the case of the shower it had probably been turned on only once or twice. We never hook up to city water without a pressure reducer and almost never hook up to city water anyway. And, if it fails you really can't use your water until fixed since there is no way to stop the flow to that fixture.
On the plus side your questions got me looking at this closer and I learned I have a removable panel that exposes the bottom of the shower should I ever need to replace the drain.
It seems logical that either there is a problem or debris at the hot water valve and I don't think the valve can be replaced by itself.
We have the 07 31 foot with no problems so far, but we do not full time, less use of faucets. But we await your outcome
as to the problem for future reference
Bob Wilson
Jim,
In the center of the knob on mine is a cap that I can pop off with a small screwdriver. Once it's out of the way, there's a phillips screw that you can remove to lift the knob out of the way. That should give you access to the valve body. Yours may be different than mine, but usually they can be worked on from the top.
Bill
Jim,
In the center of the knob on mine is a cap that I can pop off with a small screwdriver. Once it's out of the way, there's a phillips screw that you can remove to lift the knob out of the way. That should give you access to the valve body. Yours may be different than mine, but usually they can be worked on from the top.
Bill
The funny thing is that I did just that before I wrote that reply. So once you have the knob removed what exactly can you do with the valve? Thanks
Jim
Jim,
On mine, once the knob is off, there is a clear piece of plastic that fits into the white 'base' that pulls straight out. Once it's out of the way, it exposes a plastic hex 'lug' on the valve that can be used to turn it out. Taking it out on mine allows me to look into the back of the valve to see if there's any sort of obstruction in there, and also allows you to turn the stem with it out where you can see it to confirm it is moving in and out as it should.
Hope this helps!
Bill
Jim,
On mine, once the knob is off, there is a clear piece of plastic that fits into the white 'base' that pulls straight out. Once it's out of the way, it exposes a plastic hex 'lug' on the valve that can be used to turn it out. Taking it out on mine allows me to look into the back of the valve to see if there's any sort of obstruction in there, and also allows you to turn the stem with it out where you can see it to confirm it is moving in and out as it should.
Hope this helps!
Bill
Thanks much. I think that I will wait until I have a spare in hand and then take a look. I can't recall what mine looked like but I have to think it would be identical to yours.
Jim
Bill, here are a couple of photos of the valve. I don't see anything that would be removable. Does this look like yours and, if so, what piece are you talking about removing? Thanks
Jim
I think that I will wait until I have a spare in hand and then take a look.
Good move.
I have broken a lot of things while "just taking a look".
Larry
Jim,
It does look like mine except the outer piece on yours appears to be the same white plastic as the valve body, where mine is more opaque. I've attached, I hope, a couple of pictures of mine, one (fuzzy) with the outer sleeve on, and with it removed so you can see the hex lug on the valve stem.
Good luck!
Bill
Jim,
It does look like mine except the outer piece on yours appears to be the same white plastic as the valve body, where mine is more opaque. I've attached, I hope, a couple of pictures of mine, one (fuzzy) with the outer sleeve on, and with it removed so you can see the hex lug on the valve stem.
Good luck!
Bill
Can you simply grasp the part and pull it out or do you have to pry it out with a screwdriver or something? In your earlier comment I understand you to say that once you remove that piece you can somehow remove the entire valve. Is that correct, and, if so, does it unscrew or pull out? Really appreciate your help.
Jim
Hi Jim:
Have you made an inquiry for a You Tube video on this situation?
I find just about anything mechanical or what ever else, there is verbal-video on the subject,
just a thought
Bob
Hi Jim:
Have you made an inquiry for a You Tube video on this situation?
I find just about anything mechanical or what ever else, there is verbal-video on the subject,
just a thought
Bob
I should have thought of that but didn't. However, what I can find is plenty of videos on replacing but not repairing a single valve. Thanks.
Jim
Can you simply grasp the part and pull it out or do you have to pry it out with a screwdriver or something? In your earlier comment I understand you to say that once you remove that piece you can somehow remove the entire valve. Is that correct, and, if so, does it unscrew or pull out? Really appreciate your help.
Jim
Jim,
I'd be happy to help some more. A quick chat would make it much easier if you'd like. Send me a note to krmugn52 at gmail dot com with your phone number and a time convenient for you and I'd be happy to call.
Bill
Jim, I replaced my shower faucet a few years ago when it spun, not sealing or opening fully - stripped internal nylon threads, I think. Removing and replacing the connector from the back was moderate difficulty because of poor finger strength, but was not technically hard. I removed the access panel behind the faucet, then unscrewed the connections. While I did not look at the inside of the faucet, I also had a problem with the bathroom sink faucet, wherein lime deposits had partially plugged a tiny screen system formed by holes in the nylon, up inside. The only way I could see them was to use a penlight, holding the faucet upside down in my hand.
Vince at the mothership told me the valves were not removable/serviceable on my '08 MB. Perhaps other years or models have serviceable valves.
Based on all that, I would suggest you try removing the connection behind the faucet to look for a restriction from debris or lime.
Ken F in WY
Another thing to check, tho maybe it is unlikely with PEX, is a crimped hot water line feeding the shower valve - this happened with our '83, which used polybutylene tubing.
Steve
Another thing to check, tho maybe it is unlikely with PEX, is a crimped hot water line feeding the shower valve - this happened with our '83, which used polybutylene tubing.
Steve
Fortunately, I have easy access to the lines going to the shower faucet and nothing looks crimped and this is something that just seems to have happened over time. I wouldn't be surprised if it was debris from the hot water tank since we spend a lot of time in the southwest. Despite using a water conditioner we still get deposits out of the tank.
I hate unscrewing water lines, they just seem to insist on leaking when I screw them back together.
Jim
Hi Jim.
I have changed a lot of plumbing fittings over the years. Using plumbers tape on threads when re-installing prevents leaks.
Never had a failure inside or out. Just changed outside fixture this week, tape and no leaks
Just saying
Bob
Hi Jim.
I have changed a lot of plumbing fittings over the years. Using plumbers tape on threads when re-installing prevents leaks.
Never had a failure inside or out. Just changed outside fixture this week, tape and no leaks
Just saying
Bob
I do have teflon tape.
Jim
I have had similar problems with my bathroom sink and shower faucet's and ended up replacing them. I am pretty sure the stuff that clogged them came from the hot water heater which we should flush periodically. I don't know if mine had ever been flushed until a few months ago but it had a huge amount of white stuff in it.
Hey Jay,
A little of topic but is that you very own swimming hole your LD is parked in?...in your picture lol :D
Cynthia
Hey Jay,
A little of topic but is that you very own swimming hole your LD is parked in?...in your picture lol :D
It's a campground in Myrtle Beach South Carolina were it was raining a lot last November. It wouldn't surprise me if the people that check you in at the desk Have never actually seen the campground but somehow they put us in the site with no neighbors for two sites to either side. the entire area was more or less a lake in the morning. We didn't hang around too long in that general part of the country, it was just too wet. when we wanted to go kayaking the river was so high it was dangerous, you would lose the channel and just end up in the swamp somewhere
The problem is fixed. I want to thank Bill, aka krmugn. After I bought a new faucet I tried taking the valve out of the old one first and just as Bill said it will unscrew.
When I took it out I saw no debris, nothing that would explain the reduced flow and the valve appeared to open and close as it should.
I removed the faucet and saw that the problem was calcium deposits on the hot water side. There is something of a filter which is non-removable. However, given the age of our old one, 10 years, I just decided to replace it.
Jim
Thanks for the update, much appreciated